Bitch time. Andrology should be an ultra-classic line on a gorgeous piece of rock. In its present state, a top rope rehearsal is highly advised for the 30 foot runout to the first clip since the first bolt has been chopped. This start is presently "ankles for sure" if you blow it getting to the first clip. Andrology follows a series of huecos and exciting face climbing up the longest and steepest part of The Fin, and it puts everything else to shame in terms of high quality face climbing. Andrology is one hundred times better climbing than the area classic "Edge of Time". If two things happened, this line would instantly become one of the best 5.11+ routes in the Valley (Estes!!). First, retro the start, so it is in keeping with the rest of the route. Second, place a double bolt anchor below the lip but above the horizontal seam. This will set up a bee-line rap to the ground using a 60 meter rope. Andrology is a terrific piece of climbing, and it deserves the trivial amount of effort required to turn it into what it should be. NB: the huecos are a bit sandy so watch the feet.
Protection
Ten draws and several mid-size Camalots. There are bolts over the top, but these are useful only for bringing up the second, so belay over the top and walk off right or traverse left to the top of Edge of Time.
Location
This is the steep line just right of the arete, Edge of Time. It is the leftmost bolted line on this face.
The fourth bolt can currently be moved around a little bit in its hole (not just the hanger, but the bolt itself). I'm not sure a fall onto it would be a wise idea. Although the climbing on this pitch is quite good, in my opinion the rock quality isn't that great.
The bolts on the top can be used for setting up a top rope, but bring lots of extension. I used a 20' cordellette (spread to 3 bolts) plus 4' sling to get the rope over the edge.
Just got on this yesterday (7/15/07) and the 4th bolt is definitely loose. The combination of the loose bolt and the hollow rock makes this very sketchy, and I wouldn't trust the bolt to hold a fall. The moves above the bolt are not to hard though and the 5th bolt is very solid. If someone replaces the bolt, they should probably put in a 6" bolt to try and get past the crappy rock on the surface.
Stellar route. I did it around June of 2007. Glad to hear there are chains now. I can't wait to be back someday to get the redpoint. The quality of rock on this route is definitely a drawback, but with a few new solid bolts and a little more traffic to clear off the dirtiness and loose holds it could be an uber classic. I ripped off a big flake in the gully at the top and almost shattered my belayer's skull. Might want to wear a helmet for this one belayers.
The fourth bolt is still loose (again, not just the hanger but the bolt itself) as of 7/1/09. I don't really know how to fix such things... The chains up top are really handy though, thanks for putting those on! EXCELLENT route!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
