Awesome moderate. This classic route is a bit obscure but well worth the time off the beaten track. Get permission/sign in at the Cheley Camp office. 20-25min approach. Pleasant walk. Can be done in 2 60m pitches or traditionally 4 pitches.
P1 can start left of a groove/wide crack. Traverse right into a crack. Go up past a natural thread. You can reach a ledge at about 120'. Continue up through a bulge that is easier than it looks. Save the #4 Camalot for just below this bulge. Then, left to the top of a pillar at 190'.
P2. From here, follow the path of least resistance that meanders up and right direction through big holds. Crux move is through a little bulge. A perfect #11 BD wire protects the crux move. The moves ease off as you finish this 200' pitch. The "5.7" finish to the left is less obvious.
Exit. Cross the gap between this pillar and the main cliff to walk off right. 2h route. Way fun.
Additional beta: see my comments on the Deville Three rock page for how to get to the base of Deville Three pinnacle. This route can be started in any number of ways. A better second (or 3rd, depending how you do it) pitch is the second pitch of Xenomorph--see that route for a description of how to link the climbs. The pitch from the top of the pillar is fun but has some hollow holds that are also the gear placements, and the climbing is pretty stiff 5.7. Definitely do the direct 5.7 finish (also described under Xenomorph).
Thanks Leo for that 3rd pitch protection beta. For years an old Kor piton protected the faceclimbing up the black wall on pitch #3. This is now gone, and I've contemplated replacing it, since it's basically the only pro on the crux section. A steeper 5.7/8 can not be found in the Estes Valley.
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