Ian Dory on the crux move after his brother Ben le...
Description
This route was submitted subsequently as "Unknown 10b" by Richard Wright, and the descriptions are combined.
This route is placed in the "Questionable" category. There is a hold reinforced with glue. It seems to be the only one, and doesn't look like it was pulled off and then glued back on.
This route is located on the right-hand side of the trail near the top and just to the right of "Dynamometer" and behind the tree. This route is a line of seven bolts that defines a climb-anywhere face that intersects Dynamometer below the yellow head wall. A thin start between two large pine trees leads to great crimps and juggy edges with good feet climbing past 7 bolts. The climbing is decent and very well protected. The Fixe rings at the anchor make for a utilitarian top rope. A very enjoyable climb that does not get 3 stars because there are some suspect flakes which are a little loose on the route, as well as the 2nd bolt being placed in fairly hollow rock. Take care and climb carefully.
The crux comes around the 4th bolt where you will find the hidden hold just above and right of the bolt. Glued hold! From here the climbing eases. A decent line; 2 stars. Lower from the 2-bolt anchor about 70 feet.
Although this route does cross that "questionable" line, it is still quite fun. It is sustained 5.10c/d until the crux, then a good 5.11a crux move. It does mellow after the crux.
By Curt Nelson From: Fort Collins Aug 3, 2008 rating: 5.11a
It is a fun climb. I don't think the route is questionable because the little flake has been reinforced so it won't break. It is hard not to use it because you can't see it until you're on top of it. It is a good route that I felt is maybe 11a at the lower crux above the first bolt. I can't see that being 10b, it is thin and there is that crimp that is actually an underling pinch. Good moves up and right to 10c/d at the upper crux. You can keep going from the anchors and do the upper part (11b) of Dynamometer to the left for a pretty great longer pitch.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
