In 1961, Jim Disney climbed a route that came to be known as "Direct," 5.6 A4 (from Fricke's 1970s guide); it involved a "black, evil chimney," though that was nearly the extent of the description. At present, I believe that Direct begins near the center of the wall (about 40 ft left of where the approach trail meets the cliff), and nails up into a deep, dark slot (the evil chimney) about 130 feet off the ground, and perhaps 30 ft right of the second pitch of Maternal Damnation. Tim has talked with Disney, and I intend to send him a message to find out more about the ascent.
Disneyland climbs the arete immediately left of Direct. Boulder up to a ledge beneath the big white scar a little left of center (site of an old mine), and walk right on the ledge to a belay stance (flake out your rope here). Climb up into a steep groove peppered with quartz crystals, and work along the left side of an arete past 7 bolts to a good stance on the arete (chains). Others have called this harder than 5.10c, so be ready for a challenge. It didn't seem that bad to me (of course I had the advantage of rappelling the thing and TR-ing when I put in the bolts). Bring a brush and help with the lichen scrubbing if you wish.
Rappel 80 feet to the ground -- check out the crack line right of the arete as you descend and you'll see what are likely some of Disney's old fixed pins (unless someone actually repeated the route and they are someone else's pins -- maybe it was a well-known line back in the day).
This pitch is only the first of what I hope will turn into a multi-pitch line. I've TR'd the first half of the second pitch (it continues up the arete at 5.11 with some interesting climbing and can be TR'd off of the high anchors on Maternal Damnation). Stay tuned; I intend to get to the remainder of this route in the coming weeks, and will revise this description as the route unfolds. I decided to be conservative with the star rating as I do not yet know how good the entire route will be. The first pitch is certainly worth doing.
Location
Start on the right side of the ledge (gained via an easy, short boulder problem) that sits at the base of the mine hole near the center of the crag, and 15 ft below and right of the start to Maternal Damnation. See photo on main Mary's Bust page.
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