This was the route called Unfinished Business in the Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide: Estes Park Valley; by Gillett, Bernard. The base of the route is immediately left of Blood for Oil and right of the Diagonal start.
Protection
First pitch: Five bolts, belay with #0.75 Camalots. Second pitch: Six bolts plus 1-4 Metolius (double #1s) and one small black Alien, belay at bolts.
Crux begins at the second bolt (thin & sequential). The next three bolts are not a free ride, but noticeably easier. After the fifth bolt, run it to a large ledge and use the crack to build a belay (#0.75 Camalots are handy). The five bolts on a blank face mark the beginning of the second pitch (three bolts left are for Enemy Lines and five right are for Blood for Oil). Most of this section is sustained 11/12 climbing only breaking after the fourth bolt. Past bolt five begins the trad portion, and steepest section of the climb. First bulge take the left-facing, swallow dihedral with a finger crack to help (moderate 12). Second bulge traverse right and up into a swallow alcove and clip a lone bolt. Finish by sneaking up to slopers above the bolt and blast for the anchor (bolts). Craig Luebben was said to have described the steep section as thin and scary.
Even though Pat ticked this route a couple of years ago I have to say that I watched him climb it again 6 weeks ago or so. It is true of all great athletes that they make the most difficult maneuvers look so easy. Pat floated the crux and had I not known the difficulty I would have sworn he was on a 5.8 slab. Very strong work Pat. Let's hit that roof again, I want to see you get it. Al
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