Spectacular. Located just past the third corridor (The Balcony) on the left (southeast) heading into the Vestibule. Runs a line of bolts just right of the arete (formed by meeting between the right side of the Balcony and the Vestibule proper) up a steadily overhanging wall. Reach across from the large boulder and preclip the first bolt then head back down to the deck. Climb past the first bolt (bouldery) and up into the first pumpy crux. Look for rests before tackling the final thin and technical moves.
Protection
8 bolts to two bolt anchor. Preclip 1st bolt (reach across from boulder).
Broke a hold it the middle of the lower crux.... It was the lower sidepull before the big (kick-out) reach to the crimp out high and left.... It loooked like it had just been stuck on there with some cakey mud.... It looks to me that that entire sidepull section will go in under 2 years.... The part I pulled off made the lower sidepull larger, but since most use the higher one for going up to the crimp out left. I recommend leaving the grade at 12d.... At least for me....
By Buster Jesik From: CO Sep 23, 2007 rating: 5.12d
Could this be the best 12+ granite sport route in the universe?
Bullet the Blue Sky is an awesome climb, but it's welded tuff rather than granite. So that means Psychatomic IS the best granite sport climb in the universe.
If you left your draws on Psychatomic through the 08/09 winter, my friend Ken has pulled them and replaced them with his own. If you would like your manky draws back, send me a message through mp.com.
By Bob Kryzer From: Mantorville, Minnesota May 30, 2009
This route is by far the most fun thing I have ever seen on rock!
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