Higher Calling is a 300', 3 pitch sport route that starts in an arching, left-facing dihedral about 60' up and left of EOA. At present, it is the fourth bolted route you'll encounter coming up the boulder field. A relatively easy first pitch is followed by two fairly long, outlandish pitches on great stone. It's possible to rap/retreat from each pitch. I think the endurance demands take the overall onsight rating up a notch.
Pitch 1: 5.10b, 70', 8 bolts + anchor. Stem into the big dihedral, arcing up and left to an interesting crux at 50'. Belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.11c/d, 120', 15 bolts + anchor. Hang on for a wild ride up the overhanging dihedral for 60' (.11c/d--technical crux at the second bolt), and then work through an exposed and intimidating chocolate-colored bulge (.11b/c) at 70'. More steep rock leads to a rap anchor at 95'. Climb 20' past this anchor to a comfy, flat ledge and belay.
Pitch 3: 5.11b/c, 95', 13 bolts + anchor. Another steep and exposed face finishes at a good ledge about 30' below the actual top of the cliff. There are two technical cruxes (.11a/b), but the real crux is handling the relentless .10. Think you can't fall off 5.10? Don't be surprised if you melt off some pretty good holds near the end of the pitch. It's best to belay below the summit in order to see your partner and avoid some rubble at the top.
Pitch 4: Jaunt 25' to the top (5.4, 1 bolt) and find the 2-bolt anchor for EOA about 10' back.
Descent: Walk down the ramp to the north.
With plenty of very good alpine rock, airy positions and great continuity, Higher Calling is on a par with 4-star routes just about anywhere.
Protection
16 running draws + anchors, 60m rope (if you need to retreat).
Second opinion. Higher Calling is a terrific route and well worth the three stars given. While bolting the line and running it on jugs Mark indicated that he imagined the line going in a full number grade harder than it turned out to be. This seems to be commonplace on Ra. Even P1 took a couple of runs before it felt like 10a and not 10c or 10d. It's not entirely clear why this arises here. I suspect that there is lot more to work with than is apparent when you first jump on these routes. Exposure is a factor. Altitude, even for a Colorado vetran, may be a factor. The relentless steepness is a factor - the pitches just wear you down. HC turned out to be a brilliant route, taking a commanding line through one of the most exposed places on Ra. The second and third belays are airy, but spacious. The second crux on P2 may be 11d, although Mark gave it 11c - it seemed tricky. There is no doubt that the real crux on P3 is just surviving the relentless, accumulating pump. Kudos to Mark for putting up a terrific line on great stone and hanging on for the whole ride.
Very difficult to on-sight. It would take a very fit and very solid 5.12 climber to on-sight this 5.11 route. No move may be harder than 5.11c/d, but as an on-sight grade I would push it to 5.12a/b.... As stated in the description, holding on (I was able to "on-sight" the crux but fell on ladder rungs and holds big enough to 3 point turn a full-size truck!) is truly the crux. I KNOW I can fall off of 5.10! Amazing position & exposure! Great climb!
Best multi-pitch sport route within 1 hour of Boulder (not counting the approach)? Easily. A better multi-pitch sport route in Colorado? Hard to imagine.
The second crux on the second pitch is harder than the supposed 11c/d first crux, and the following 20 feet are very pumpy. I saw three people (including me) climb through the first crux no problem and hang on the second. I also think the third pitch is just about as hard as the second. No moves are as difficult, but, as has been said, the pump is relentless. There's still some dangerous loose rock on the third pitch, including one chalked block you really want to use but shouldn't. Best to belay (and stand around at the base) with a helmet. All this said, this is a terrific must-do route.
Ra
RSS Feed
