Higher Calling is a 300', 3 pitch sport route that starts in an arching, left-facing dihedral about 60' up and left of EOA. At present, it is the fourth bolted route you'll encounter coming up the boulder field. A relatively easy first pitch is followed by two fairly long, outlandish pitches on great stone. It's possible to rap/retreat from each pitch. I think the endurance demands take the overall onsight rating up a notch.
Pitch 1: 5.10b, 70', 8 bolts + anchor. Stem into the big dihedral, arcing up and left to an interesting crux at 50'. Belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.11d, 120', 15 bolts + anchor. Hang on for a wild, unrelenting ride up the overhanging dihedral for 60' (.11c/d--technical crux at the second bolt), and then work through the second crux on an exposed and intimidating chocolate-colored bulge (.11c/d) at 70'. More steep rock leads to a lowering anchor at 95' (NOT the belay). Climb 20' past this anchor to a comfy, flat ledge and belay.
Pitch 3: 5.11b/c, 95', 13 bolts + anchor. Another steep, exposed and exciting face finishes at a good ledge about 30' below the actual top of the cliff. After bolt 2, balance right around the arete, staying low at first, and then up to bolts 3 and 4 (first crux). There are two technical cruxes (.11a/b), but the real crux is handling the relentless 5.10. Think you can't fall off 5.10? Don't be surprised if you melt off some pretty good holds near the end of the pitch. It's best to belay below the summit in order to see your partner and avoid some rubble at the top.
Pitch 4: Jaunt 25' to the top (5.4, 1 bolt) and find the 2-bolt anchor for EOA about 10' back.
Descent: Walk down the ramp to the north.
With plenty of very good alpine rock, airy positions and fierce continuity, Higher Calling is on a par with 4-star routes just about anywhere.
Second opinion. Higher Calling is a terrific route and well worth the three stars given. While bolting the line and running it on jugs Mark indicated that he imagined the line going in a full number grade harder than it turned out to be. This seems to be commonplace on Ra. Even P1 took a couple of runs before it felt like 10a and not 10c or 10d. It's not entirely clear why this arises here. I suspect that there is lot more to work with than is apparent when you first jump on these routes. Exposure is a factor. Altitude, even for a Colorado vetran, may be a factor. The relentless steepness is a factor - the pitches just wear you down. HC turned out to be a brilliant route, taking a commanding line through one of the most exposed places on Ra. The second and third belays are airy, but spacious. The second crux on P2 may be 11d, although Mark gave it 11c - it seemed tricky. There is no doubt that the real crux on P3 is just surviving the relentless, accumulating pump. Kudos to Mark for putting up a terrific line on great stone and hanging on for the whole ride.
Very difficult to on-sight. It would take a very fit and very solid 5.12 climber to on-sight this 5.11 route. No move may be harder than 5.11c/d, but as an on-sight grade I would push it to 5.12a/b.... As stated in the description, holding on (I was able to "on-sight" the crux but fell on ladder rungs and holds big enough to 3 point turn a full-size truck!) is truly the crux. I KNOW I can fall off of 5.10! Amazing position & exposure! Great climb!
Best multi-pitch sport route within 1 hour of Boulder (not counting the approach)? Easily. A better multi-pitch sport route in Colorado? Hard to imagine.
The second crux on the second pitch is harder than the supposed 11c/d first crux, and the following 20 feet are very pumpy. I saw three people (including me) climb through the first crux no problem and hang on the second. I also think the third pitch is just about as hard as the second. No moves are as difficult, but, as has been said, the pump is relentless. There's still some dangerous loose rock on the third pitch, including one chalked block you really want to use but shouldn't. Best to belay (and stand around at the base) with a helmet. All this said, this is a terrific must-do route.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Aug 3, 2009 rating: 5.12-
Wow. Cool. Indeed one of the finer sport climbs in The Front Range, and as I understand it, I didn't even do the best pitch (3rd)! The first pitch is fun, the second pitch is unbelievable. Though the moves might only be 5.11 to 5.11+, there are a lot of them. I hope you ate your Wheaties.... I see the potential for a 5.11 climber on-sighting this as more or less 0.
A note on the second pitch: P2 faces DIRECTLY into the sun as the sun comes over the cliff-line and is at a literally blinding angle- you can't even see the bolts, let alone the holds. We started this one just before the sun came over the top and ended up climbing the upper half of the crux pitch "by Braille." I got punted at the top, not long before the anchors and got punted on a 5.10 section, melting off some pretty good moves.
The 3rd pitch has the second bolt about 3' above a 3' ledge. The 3rd bolt is a hard move above that if you go directly up. If you fell before bolt #3, you WOULD this large, jagged ledge. The holds are polished slipping feet, a slightly obtuse pinch, and a big quartzy sloper. You could easily blow it, and hit the ledge before any rope tension was at all. Breaking an ankle, knee, or leg up there would be a really tough situation, and I think that is the eventual result of that clip for someone, especially if shorter climbers attempt it. My 5.11 leading parner and I, who climbs about a number grade harder, both decided it was beyond our level of acceptable risk. I suggest that the FA party give permission to add a higer bolt between #2 and #3 on pitch 3 to other climbers, or perhaps consider doing so themselves. There is solid rock , a good stance and an opportunity for a higer clip right before the 'ledge fall' move. To be clear- I am making a suggestion- meanwhile, I'm satisfied with the conclusion that the route is simply more man that me. However, I make the suggestion knowing Richard and Mark would never create an intentional situation like that.
EDIT: I talked to Richard last night, and Mark wrote me this AM regarding this and some other matters. After some minor discussion it's better understood. The 3rd pitch traverses RIGHT around an arete after the #2 bolt and does not go directly upward, as I & my partner had both had attempted. This would make it much easier and also displace a fall away from the ledge. However, cogniscent of the fact that not everyone will get this Micro-beta, and there may be more tunnel-visioned fools like me out there who are more stubborn and do it that way, Mark agreed that it may be a good idea and said he'd check it out and perhaps add a bolt next time he is up there. Meanwhile... go right after P2 on P3!
The second pitch on this reminded me of junior prom - a lot of groping and not getting anywhere. Cryptic to say the least. Managed to make it to the very last crux, but alas, my ability to grope and not get anywhere resulted in premature ejection. I could see it going at 11c or so after getting it dialed a bit, but agree with others that onsighting it would be pretty proud.