No Goats, No Glory runs up the left side of the main headwall in two pitches. P1 surmounts a small roof on jugs for 5.10d. The rock to start is friable, but quickly improves at the second clip. There is a double bolt anchor at 50 feet in a good stance. P2 is a classic on brilliant stone. The first four clips entail some tricky finger work leading out right to a band of black streaked stone, the crux. Pulling through this gains a brilliant slab that just gets better and better the higher you go. While it can be done in a couple of ways, my favorite move works the right margin of the slab and picks up some instant exposure. A killer rest arises on a tiny edge poised over the precipice. FFA went to Nevada Montigue while we were trading attempts.
Protection
A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope. This route is composed of two pitches. P1 is 5.10d. P2 is 5.12a. A 60 m rope will just touch ground from the double bolt anchor at the top of P2. A 50 m rope will not.
I would give this more on the order of a 5.12b. The middle part of pitch 2 felt somewhat difficult for my 5'7" frame. Very reachy.
The 5.11 section on the start of the second pitch was stellar. Very tricky climbing, but very doable.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jul 19, 2009 rating: 5.12a
The moves getting into the second pitch near the arete are interesting. Lead as one single pitch, this is a pumpy one. Would be way more stars if the rock was better.
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