The Bush League climbs like two routes in one. It starts with good holds on a vertical wall that disappear just before the fourth bolt. One or two hard moves leads to a large ledge. It is possible to camp here, so you might want to bring a chair and six pack to enjoy the scenery while you recover fully.
Set off up an overhanging face with jugs to the top.
Terrific route. The opening crux, which can be easily avoided to the left, felt like 12b after some tries working out an inobvious sequence. The second half of the route is among the best in the area. A boulder problem at the 2d bolt off the ledge leads to fun climbing with big moves to big, sometimes hidden, holds. 12a on its own.
I'll agree that the contrived variation (staying in the direct plum-line of the 1st 4 bolts and not busting a left to jugs) is quite hard for 12a. 12b seems like the right rating for the lower sequence I worked out. The upper jug sequence is way easier. Some folks I was climbing with dared to say 11b/c without the direct start. Oh, we broke 2 holds and 2 feet off this route today.
Matt, Chris - glad to hear you enjoyed the route! That lower crux seems to be nearly on-sight proof. I got on it again this summer and had to work out the sequence all over again. From my vantage point, however, I would have to say that the "contrived variation" is busting out left. :) I broke a footer myself - it sounds like the lower section could be getting harder.
I have never been on it, but I know contrived when I am climbing something that is. If you find yourself asking yourself if the holds are on, then it is contrived or forced. Not the end of the world just not as good as a line that isn't. Sounds like a good route despite the bottom's ambiguity.
Normally, when a post begins with "I have never been on it, but...", I would dismiss it as the rantings of someone craving attention. But I'm bored, and craving attention, so here goes. Eric, by definition, all climbing routes are contrived. Every route ever done, sport, trad or otherwise, has been contrived by someone, even the boldest, hardest solos. Which makes the sport of climbing somewhat of a contrivance, albeit a damn fine way to waste precious time.
So, step away from the computer, climb down off the couch, visit Lime Creek and climb the many contrivances you will find there. Nobody will (hopefully) 'force' you to use this hold, or that hold, or stay strictly to a particular sequence - you're even welcome to step on bolts, pull on draws and train your belayer to tug on the rope at just the right "moment". Hell, I won't even be offended if you don't like any of my contrivances. Climb on!
North Wall
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