The Bush League 

Terrific route. The opening crux, which can be easily avoided to the left, felt like 12b after some tries working out an inobvious sequence. The second half of the route is among the best in the area. A boulder problem at the 2d bolt off the ledge leads to fun climbing with big moves to big, sometimes hidden, holds. 12a on its own.

I'll agree that the contrived variation (staying in the direct plum-line of the 1st 4 bolts and not busting a left to jugs) is quite hard for 12a. 12b seems like the right rating for the lower sequence I worked out. The upper jug sequence is way easier. Some folks I was climbing with dared to say 11b/c without the direct start. Oh, we broke 2 holds and 2 feet off this route today.

Matt, Chris - glad to hear you enjoyed the route! That lower crux seems to be nearly on-sight proof. I got on it again this summer and had to work out the sequence all over again. From my vantage point, however, I would have to say that the "contrived variation" is busting out left. :)
I broke a footer myself - it sounds like the lower section could be getting harder.

I have never been on it, but I know contrived when I am climbing something that is. If you find yourself asking yourself if the holds are on, then it is contrived or forced. Not the end of the world just not as good as a line that isn't. Sounds like a good route despite the bottom's ambiguity.

Normally, when a post begins with "I have never been on it, but...", I would dismiss it as the rantings of someone craving attention. But I'm bored, and craving attention, so here goes. Eric, by definition, all climbing routes are contrived. Every route ever done, sport, trad or otherwise, has been contrived by someone, even the boldest, hardest solos. Which makes the sport of climbing somewhat of a contrivance, albeit a damn fine way to waste precious time.

So, step away from the computer, climb down off the couch, visit Lime Creek and climb the many contrivances you will find there. Nobody will (hopefully) 'force' you to use this hold, or that hold, or stay strictly to a particular sequence - you're even welcome to step on bolts, pull on draws and train your belayer to tug on the rope at just the right "moment". Hell, I won't even be offended if you don't like any of my contrivances. Climb on!

Led all these routes this weekend, and I can't help but to agree with Eric's general principle regarding contrived vs. more obviously pure lines take, say for example obviously any route at the Creek, or especially any pure arete, or continuous crack line anywhere. The bottom of this line is very much height dependent, I'm a bit over 5' 7", and I had to set up and dyno to the high pocket/vertical edge hold that completes boulder problem of the first 25'section, but a six foot guy can just reach up and grab it. So 12b for 2-3 moves for the sequence for me. The top (monkey fun sort of thing) has 11c crux then an easy 5.10 jug haul to the top. Initially on my first go I went left, because I always attempt to solve any climbing problem by the easiest option I can find and the left option is less than 4' from the bolt. Since moving to Colorado from WA, I have encountered lots of this sort of thing on bolted sport routes in the Front Range crags, and I don't let it get to me anymore. These routes are, for me, by and large just filler, same as going to a gym but outdoors. No high expectations to begin with, 'cause let’s face it we are not talking bout Astroman here. Lots of loose rock here, we pulled off chunks as big as cantaloupes at times, and as a group of 6 people...pulled off a couple dozen rocks of all sizes on all the routes at N. Wall. It appears that, with at least this crag, there has been no attempt whatsoever to prevent "trail" erosion or construct even the most rudimentary belay platforms from available rock. The real appeal of this area is the beautiful little meadow with two nice little creeks flowing strong due to all recent t-storms, lots of birds, lush vegetation, lots of flowers,situated at 9000'. But 5-10 years from now when this relatively fragile place is trashed, no thought having been given to the environmental impacts by the developers, then everyone will, as usual, be throwin a fit when access regulations have to be put in place to control all the pallet burning alcoholic cretins that seem to make up an ever increasing % of the climbing community. Like it or not supervision is necessary and it seems that every place I've been that is free and unregulated is treated with little respect buy many people. There were guys with chainsaws there this weekend. Not climbers I think, but it's climbers that will take the heat anyway. The climbs I did were ok but not unique even to Colorado and are not worth the inevitable destruction of this little alpine canyon/meadow.

Ya know, I don't like contrived lines either, AND THIS IS CERTAINLY NOT ONE OF THEM. I feel the need to defend this route, even in opposition to the friend I climbed it with. The only thing I could say if this line had not been bolted would be what a waste! It's a great line. Going left from the 3rd bolt is appealing during the onsight attempt, especially after having taken a good look at a very difficult and technical crux to the right, but having gone left, the climber now finds him/herself on still very, very difficult ground, perhaps harder. It is at this point that it becomes very easy to go even further left, get completely off route with simple and easy stems and jugs galore, and not be worried in the slightest about the nasty fall you would take (if you were actually climbing something one might fall on). I could traverse over to several neighboring routes and climb 5.8 comfortably to avoid cruxes, but being nearly 10 feet away HORIZONTALLY from the bolt means you biffed the onsight and need to go back for a second look at the real meat and potatoes.

Pulling the crux leaves you directly in line with the bolts and very well protected. I think the crux to be height dependent when using the beta I got it with... maybe 12b for shorter people.

Stellar climbing. A bit loose but will of course clean up with traffic (it's nearly clean now with only a handful of ascents). where a helmet if it's that big of a deal (no one in greg's party of 6 did). The belay stations and access trails definitely need to be improved, and that surely is part of route development.

Don't miss this. I thought it the best route on the wall!

OK I agree with Eric that this is the best route on the wall and really fun jug haulin on the top section. The hard way of doin it down low IS A LOT more fun than the easy left option, which is boring, but if you're under 5'5" and too short to do it at less than 12d then go left and enjoy the fun stuff up high. The word contrived is a bit strong or even irrelevant on a route of this type to some extent, but...for ex., one of the key large rails down low near the crux, and on the left, used as a "legit" hand hold, then has to be put out of bounds for use as a foot hold, and only 12" to the left of this rail which is itself is maybe 2' left of the hanger, are stems and jugs that put you on the ledge in two moves...so if you have to eliminate holds for feet that were used for hands then it's an eliminate game where you have to intentionally ignore holds that are within 4 feet left of the third bolt (3-4' absolute max, no where near 10'). I believe that on a completely "uncontrived" line, as Eric Ricard said, there is no doubt whatsoever. On such lines there is generally no easy option within reach at all and if there were it would come with the danger of a long bad pendulum fall. In this case, the fall is not significantly different either way just a slight swing from the left. Eric S. has immense enthusiasm and a great attitude and is workin Ten Digit Dialing fer ex. a very hard route for a first year climber, and you can go left, you can go right, you can go straight thru, but no matter how you try it it's really hard, you can't traverse around the crux unless you want to make it 5.14, hence it's more or less an "uncontrived" route. I guess 25 years of hunting down trad climbing classics all over the USA has spoiled me. Perhaps,just maybe, (I could be wrong:), learning to sport climb in the Boulder area would give one a somewhat skewed view of what constitutes contrived given the way they pack 'em in here. Wanna see uncontrived? Check out the HIGHLY abbreviated todo list I just threw together in the last 15 minutes. With so many incredible routes out there already why put up anything less than mega classics of the caliber in my todo list and maybe even then only after having at least tasted, if not fully exhausted those established classics first?

I really can't argue with anything you've just said Greg (except of course the hand hold on/foot hold off part that would make it highly contrived and is not the case). I'll be perusing your todo list asap, because I have no doubt in my mind that it is loaded with stellar routes. You are spoiled... and that is a GREAT thing to be when discussing the quality of routes you've ticked. I hope to get there someday as well and your list has got to be an excellent way to start!

-eric

P.S. - I didn't learn to sport climb in Boulder.... CCC actually, and no regrets there!