Mountain Project: Climbing Eagle/Vail

This area encompasses a geographic location with a variety of vertical type experiences. You probably have heard most about the Vail ice and you can find that under the CO ice/mixed section. In this section, you will find various rock cragging on sandstone, limestone, gneiss, schist, and even some granite. While this generally has little for a destination type of experience, there is still some interesting crags to find vertical pleasure.

Some of the climbing here is protected in information accessibility and locals may cringe to see non-Eagle county folks playing here. Nonetheless, we have to share amiably and symbiose.

Some of the better known areas include Lime Park's limestone, Wolcott's sandstone & Gilman's gneiss, but there more for the exploring types.

Due to the increased elevation, most of the cragging in this area is limited to April to October times.

coming soon

Getting There

As a well-known ski area, this general location is easy to find. I-70 accesses this area from either east or west (100 mi W of Denver). From the south, you can access this area via CO Hwy 9 (past Copper Mtn) or US 24 (through Minturn). From the north you can access this area via CO Hwy 9 (Silverthorne) or CO Hwy 131 (Wolcott). The ice cragging is mostly visible from I-70. Parking is challenging, since all street parking in Vail is subject to ticketing. Gilman, illegal to access, is reached via US 24 south from Minturn.

Weather

The Classics

Featured Route For Eagle/Vail

Chris Deulen in the midst of the traverse.

Smoke on the Water 5.11c CO : Eagle/Vail : ... : The Punchbowl

Currently the first route on the left of the overhang, this amazing 11c starts from a sketchy belay, going to a large block that may fall off in 50 years. There is a glued hold just above the first bolt. The 3rd bolt starts the move to the right. A jug seems to magically appear whenever the holds run out. You may find yourself pumped out and epic-ing by the time you get to the somewhat of a downclimb crux near the last two bolts. Gain a good side...[more] Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Eagle/Vail

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By maryjax
From: golden
Aug 4, 2007

Hi,
Does anyone out there have any info on the routes at Homestake Creek in the Holy Cross Wilderness area? Is there a guidebook for this area?
Any info before next weekend would be great!
Thanks.

By Jordan Winters
From: Vail, Co
Apr 28, 2009

Anybody have beta for the crag on Homestake Rd. (between Red Cliff and Camp Hale) .25 miles over the bridge on the right? About 8-9 solid sport routes there, would like to add them to this site but need some more info on them. Good quality and fun stuff!

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 29, 2009

I've got the old Rock & Ice that lists routes for Homestake. I'll pull it out. If I recall it's from the mid-90s(?) and it's the kind of thing you don't see anymore. Great crag. I did a bunch of my early climbing there.

By Jordan Winters
From: Vail, Co
May 31, 2009

Nice Michael, do you know if any new routes have been put up since that mag. was published? If not, and you want to send me the beta I'd be happy to put in on Mountain Project, or if you feel so inclined to do so yourself, have at it!

I picked up the Western Slope guide today and saw you in there, nice work and thanks for all the goodness! I'm heading to Lime Creek for a couple days this week, never been but looking forward to it

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Eagle/Vail

Description

Getting There

Weather

The Classics