This small crag hosts a handful of sport routes. The rock can be slick and dirty, especially after periods of rain or after spring runoff. Many of the routes are still in the process of being cleaned and should improve with time. Climbing here is incredibly convenient as it is close to the road and requires basically no approach. There are mostly moderate routes, making this a good place for novice leaders.
The cliff gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The base of the cliff is in the trees and stays pretty shady. Fall is probably the best time to climb here. Temperatures in the Spring are pleasant, but the rock tends to be a little dirty. Summer afternoons in the shade can be comfortable as well.
Getting There
From Durango, head north on US 550 for about 12 miles, take the right turn off the highway (CR250) and park in a small dirt parking area. Hike back under the highway to the climbing area.
Routes listing (L->R)
Nine Lives, 9, 50'. The Undercling, 10-, 40'. Unnamed 11a, 55'. Squeeze Job, 9+, 50'. Solly Pocket, 8+, 55'.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fume Wall:
I've taken part in some of the development of this area. The routes are still in the process of being cleaned, but have real potential for being a good addition to Durango climbing selection. The best routes have turned out on the lower angled (south end of the wall) and constitute some great moderate sport climbing ranging in difficulty from 5.7-5.12b. All the routes are rigged with chains.The land owner is on to us though, and he has no intention of allowing anyone to climb there. Our litigious society rears its ugly head once again, as his legal counsel has deemed the Fume Wall an "attractable nuisance."
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