The rightmost of the four bolted routes near Marijuana and Renaissance. Follow a left-leaning "crack" for a sustained and chossy ride past the first three bolts. The first bolt is quite high and the rock below it is a bit loose - stick clip advised. Once at the "rest" ledge, head straight up the improbable headwall past the last two bolts. The guidebook notes that a large hueco to the left "will grant you easier passage" after the last bolt, but this way seems very contrived and would implicate a decent pendulum. Best to power straight up via an unlikely-looking dyno from a kneebar - probably 11b or so. 0.83 stars, but with a little more traffic (and consequent removal of some of the lower choss), this would be a fine outing.
By Cheyne From: Boulder, CO Jul 29, 2009 CONDITION REPORT
Climbed this yesterday doing rope solo, and found that there is a beehive halfway up the route. When I was rapping down to climb the route, I saw the bees and just climbed the top half.
The bottom of this route has a fair amount of loose rock - I kicked off a noggin' splitting sized cobble with one good whack of my heel (after rattling it nearly out with my hand). Beware.
Higher up, the route could use an extra bolt or two, but the crack might take a small to mid sized cam or nut.
The hueco out left to which Darin refers is actually used on the route Renaissance, and will certainly seem off route to anyone given over to respecting even the basic nature of 'eliminate' climbing, and therefore seems improbable whilst milking the body sized hueco from which only a dyno (or a very long deadpoint) seems imminent. Go for it!
This route has cleaned up substantially over the last year or so, and now has very little loose rock on the lower section. More continuous than its neighbors to the left (Renaissance, Magician's, and Marijuana), the climbing is now on a par with any of those routes and it deserves two stars.
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