Chase a line of bolts just right of Radiation Fear via large pockets on a left diagonal to a good stance. Chill, pull the face on thin edges and get established below the short arete above. Get a clip under the arete's roof and another on the face above. A nifty, kinesthetic sequence polishes the arete and gains the anchor. This sequence may be closer to 10d than 10c. This is a fun route and one of the best on the wall.
Fun climb with a great finish but 10c/d?! Really? I did Beta Slave the same day and found that to be a much more challenging climb. Maybe I was cheating on this one. Are all the juggs off limits or something like that? This whole climb is super juggy except for the last two moves.
I listed this as 10.a in the '94 Rock & Ice guide. As Tom, Tod, Richard, Scott and I were there just about every weekend at the time, I'm pretty sure that was consenus. The arete pull is the only "hard" move, and even then only because you can't see the key pocket. Then again, we were on these routes so often that we got inadvertantly sandbaggy. 10b might be right.
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