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Wild America 

5.12c

   

FA: Wright, Hanson, Lane, 1995
Type: Sport
Views: 272 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 14, 2001


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Note, some of these crags are closed for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Here's you need to do a right leg over left arm fi...


Description 

As you migrate left around the South face of the Dungeon area, and prior to entering the maze of the dungeon proper, you come to a system of very steep roofs above a very cobbled bed rock. Wild America ascends the cobbled bed rock, traverses left and then jogs immediately back right to get establihed above a narrow roof. The meat comes in chasing a black streak via thin, sharp edges with some big reaches, on a dead vertical wall. Cool moves on sharp rock kick up a CWC "classic". We tried many times to link through the roof without the traverse left, but this never worked despite putting the combined 425 of muscle of the Ubermeisters, Tom and Mike, on the task. Cool line up an obvious feature.


Protection 

Six or eight draws and a rope.



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By Mike Lane
From: Centennial, CO
Nov 23, 2002

Hasn't anyone 'pointed the direct start yet? Richard, I told you shortly before my climbing exile was imposed that this route requires a figure 4 from the base of the nose under the roof to get established. Right fingers into pocket, left foot in scoop, stand up and pinch the potato chip flake.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 24, 2002

Welcome back Mike !!!! I have not tried this since way back when, and I don't know if Tom or you or anyone else got back to get it clean. In 1995 it was led all free but with one or two hangs up high. While W.A. has a lot of cruxy moves, as you know, it's still pretty short and "only" 5.12. I'd be a bit surprised if someone didn't put it away a long time ago.