Pat Burwick swinging his own sirloin on Swinging S...
Description
The furthest route left on the Falls Wall is a steep little thing that arcs a bit left on sharp edges and thin pockets. Named during the FA when Mike Lane took a whipper lifting his belayer half way up the route. Nice continuous climbing with good solid climbing.
Classic! May be the most sustained climb of it's grade in CWC. Don't sally out right at the 3rd bolt, but stay straight on the face. Climbs a lot longer and better than it looks. I hucked meat.
Just revisited this route today (with Mr. Cavallaro) after about 18 years. Forgot how fun it was. There's like 4 or 5 .11A moves in a row, culminating with one solid .11 move to a cobble; then 3-4 .10 moves to the anchors.
Those anchors need to be reset; we were under the influence of some goofy idea from Climbing Mag at the time regarding offsetting the anchors to better equalize the forces.
If you visit this wall to work on Rim Job or Bones, don't miss this. Doesn't look like much, but its fun.
Incidentally, this was the first route by the Anderson/Wright/Leonard/Lane crew at CWC, and while this was getting tapped in (by hand, which influenced both Tod and Richard to buy power drills) we met Tom Hanson. Kinda historic in CWC terms.
I can't believe it took 20 years to connect that pun, good job Tom! And yes, once again I was swinging all over it and nearly pulled Brian off his belay deck, fortunately he weighs more than Richard did.
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