Follow the West facing corner system of the third buttress left of Wendell Spire. The crux is getting established in the corner system at 15 ft. Very hard for 5.9.
I second that. The crux move at the overhang is an awkard, powerful, off-balance layback on a handjam. My vote's on that move being in the 10a range, but maybe that's just because it kicked my ass.
I agree the crux is harder. 5.10a is more correct. I spent 4-5 minutes trying different sequences before I convinced myself to commit. It was real sketchy while on lead ove the crux. The good thing is that you have a bolt you can clip above you before heading over the crux. Once past the crux it's an easy stem to the top.
By Darrin Stein From: Moab, UT May 18, 2003 rating: 5.9+
There are two routes that are within all the pictures seen here. I believe the one listed is straight up where the rope line is (see pic #1). I could be wrong, but it seems the comments are for the route to the right, which I believe is Prarie Dog.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT MY PROBLEM IS I HAVE CLIMBED OTHER ROUTES OF 5.10 ON UP TO 5.11A. I KNOW I AM NOT THE GREATEST CLIMBER BUT THINK I WOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH TO HANDLE THIS ONE. I AM HAVING THE HARDEST TIME GETTING ESTABLISHED IN THE CORNER. ANYONE WHO'S DONE IT THAT HAS ANY TIPS?
Bryce, first of all all caps equals shouting. Anyway, the key beta here is that you backstep with the left foot and thrust your left buttcheek onto the angled ramp thingy. Once you've weighted the buttcheek, you can reposition hands and feet and move on.
This climb kicked my butt today. I should have read this info before we went out. The weighted butt-cheek would have probably helped a lot. I also agree with the 5.10a.
We will be back....
By TheSykle From: Castle Rock, CO Sep 26, 2009 rating: 5.10a
Hit this for the first time today.... Couldn't quite make the crux. Friends and several sacrifices of flesh to the Rock Gods lead us to rename it "5.9 my butt". Bottom line, concur with a 10a/b. Will try it with the butt trick discussed.