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Wendell Spire
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Bag of Tricks aka Flake 
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Bag of Tricks aka Flake 

5.9+

   

FA: RMWright, 1995
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Views: 661 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 6, 2001


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Note, some of these crags are closed for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Ready for a beta test.


Description 

Follow the West facing corner system of the third buttress left of Wendell Spire. The crux is getting established in the corner system at 15 ft. Very hard for 5.9.


Protection 

Draws and a rope.



Photos of Bag of Tricks aka Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Koko on the start.

Koko on the start.

Koko setting up the sandbag hand-jam.

Koko setting up the sandbag hand-jam.

Ken leading on Bag of Tricks.

Ken leading on Bag of Tricks.

in hiking boots

in hiking boots

sending the crux

sending the crux


Comments on Bag of Tricks aka Flake Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 26, 2009
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Nov 18, 2001

The move to get into the corner seems 10a to me--quite powerful compared to other 9s I've climbed.

By Sean O'Dell
Apr 29, 2002

I second that. The crux move at the overhang is an awkard, powerful, off-balance layback on a handjam. My vote's on that move being in the 10a range, but maybe that's just because it kicked my ass.

By Darin Lang
May 28, 2002
rating: 5.10a

I third that. 10a if you do it just right, harder if you do it wrong (aka My Way).

By ROC
From: Englehood, CO
Feb 19, 2003

Fun route with tricky crux. Just figuring out what to do is the toughest part. Once you got it dialed it goes with no problem.

By Ken McVicker
From: Centennial, CO
Mar 15, 2003

I agree the crux is harder. 5.10a is more correct. I spent 4-5 minutes trying different sequences before I convinced myself to commit. It was real sketchy while on lead ove the crux. The good thing is that you have a bolt you can clip above you before heading over the crux. Once past the crux it's an easy stem to the top.

By Darrin Stein
From: Moab, UT
May 18, 2003
rating: 5.9+

There are two routes that are within all the pictures seen here. I believe the one listed is straight up where the rope line is (see pic #1). I could be wrong, but it seems the comments are for the route to the right, which I believe is Prarie Dog.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
May 19, 2003

Darrin--my comments were for Bag of Tricks. I think it's hard to confuse the routes since Prairie Dog does not involve the corner or crack at all.

By BRYCE LARSEN
From: AURORA CO
May 17, 2009

I DON'T KNOW WHAT MY PROBLEM IS I HAVE CLIMBED OTHER ROUTES OF 5.10 ON UP TO 5.11A. I KNOW I AM NOT THE GREATEST CLIMBER BUT THINK I WOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH TO HANDLE THIS ONE. I AM HAVING THE HARDEST TIME GETTING ESTABLISHED IN THE CORNER. ANYONE WHO'S DONE IT THAT HAS ANY TIPS?

By Mike Lane
From: Centennial, CO
May 17, 2009

Bryce, first of all all caps equals shouting.
Anyway, the key beta here is that you backstep with the left foot and thrust your left buttcheek onto the angled ramp thingy. Once you've weighted the buttcheek, you can reposition hands and feet and move on.

By BRYCE LARSEN
From: AURORA CO
May 24, 2009

Mike, thanks very much for the advice. It worked just like you said.

By crisgaret
From: Castle Rock, CO
Sep 26, 2009

This climb kicked my butt today. I should have read this info before we went out. The weighted butt-cheek would have probably helped a lot. I also agree with the 5.10a.

We will be back....

By TheSykle
From: Castle Rock, CO
Sep 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a

Hit this for the first time today.... Couldn't quite make the crux. Friends and several sacrifices of flesh to the Rock Gods lead us to rename it "5.9 my butt". Bottom line, concur with a 10a/b. Will try it with the butt trick discussed.