In the middle of the Zoids, between the Falls Wall and the Projects is a bolted arete. The climb starts off on a lower tier left of the arete, leading to a ledge and the arete. The crux of this route is getting to the first big ledge/ clipping the first bolt. The start is a good boulder problem in itself leading to easier climbing on the arete with obscure holds.
Protection
7 QDs. The two bolt anchor on top is missing hangers so the alternatives are to set up an anchor on top w/ or w/out the last bolt. A large sling is usefull for the top anchor.
begin with the left hand in one of the many holes at the bottom. step up. grap the holey pocket under the small crack with your right hand. catch the highest hole on the left with you lefty and the right goes to the cracky side pullish crappy hold. if your 6' tall you should be able to hit the top with your left, its now time to clip, after clipping reach for the top with your right hand but wait, mind the cactus. shimmy up onto the ledge and stand uo. congrats you've past the crux and your now onto fun climbing. wrap your left hand around the cobble and put your right foot on the arete behing you. this is personaly my favorite move on this route. after this move you're on the second ledge and the arete is the only thing left. theres plenty of good holds but no anchors so you sould either top out or sling it. you're done, great job!
Fun. The first bolt is about 15 ft up and past the crux. and anchor can be made with a few long sligs (we used cordalettes) a pink tricam, and some #1 to 2 Camalots.
RSS Feed
