In the corner of the Falls Wall directly above the Buoux Block is the climb. The lower section is hard to protect with the crux being getting to the large pocket and thus the flake. The flake above (easier) is very aestetic and takes a few good cams. Lieback on the flake as much as you want! The start I took is the feature on the far right that is shaded. The crux is getting to the big pocket (left of the tree) The flake is hidden in this pic but obvious from any other angle.
Protection
The bottom is tricky to protect. I used a large nut in a constricting crack/pocket. The upper flake takes some small to medium cams. Setting up an anchor is ploblematic. I used the bolts to the N with a good directional.
Fun climb, although a bit more difficult on lead than I expected given its 5.7 rating. Basically, I got good pro only where it was easy and not needed. A good TR can be set up using a nut and two good cam placements in the overhanging crack visible above the line in the photo.
I agree, fun climbing, but short. I top roped this and set an anchor in the crack on top of the overhanging section on top of cliff. Used 3 hexes, worked just fine. Fun variations on easy rock.
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