Start on the L-facing flake and move straight up to some small horizontal breaks. Good powerful moves to start, then balance and crimping take over to the anchors. Nice route.
Another fun, well-protected route here. Despite appearances, the top section is pretty straightforward once you find the positive (yet blind) holds. The crux for me was getting from the first bolt to the juggy clipping hold near the second bolt.
The amount of broken glass and other trash in the Dungeon is ridiculous - belaying in this area reminded me of the "broken glass walker" that once appeared on the TV show "That's Incredible" (how many remember that?). Definitely don't go near this place barefoot, and I'd probably be uncomfortable even with just sandals. Cripes.
The Rack seemed a bit easier than 5.11 but was very fun regardless. I bet the jerks who break the glass in there aren't climbers and will proabably never read this but f#ck you guys (or girls) anyways. My favorite move is the cross over from the intermediate crimper (left) over right and up to the big pocket jug that is practically invisible until you get there. I tried this one left but found clipping was too awkward and failed the onsight. Second time through... I got it and the cross over was the ticket. Have fun and watch your toes!!
By Scott Rogers From: Boulder, Co Mar 31, 2006 rating: 5.10+
Very Fun! Although the approach was a little disconcerting for a first-time dungeon climber, once I found this quiet area I was definitely impressed. The route is definitely a great warmup for the other routes in the area.
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