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Five and Dime Boulders Climbing
Routes in Five and Dime Boulders
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Break the Chains V6 7A |
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Brushburn V1 5 |
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Day Old Roller Dog V4 6B |
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Diamond Back In The Rough V0 4 |
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Gap Block Standard V6-7 7A+ |
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Pax V0 4 |
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Pee Piddle Lee on the Dee Diddle Lee V2 5+ |
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Slurpee V2 5+ |
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Trough Arete V5 6C |
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Under The Fun V0-1 4+ |
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Unknown V2+ 5+ |
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Warmup Traverse V1 5 |
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What's This? V0 4 |
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| GPS: |
39.36162, -104.77306 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 11,982 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Sep 7, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This is mainly a collection of bouldering North of the Grocery Store Walls. Some excellent boulders line the hillside and the cliff hosts a good variety of climbing--highballs, traverses, trad, toprope, and best of all, seclusion. Not many people venture to this area of the park because, technically it's outside of the boundary of the park. Sssshhhhhhh....
Because the area doesn't see much traffic, the wildlife seems to be more concentrated. I've seen a nesting raccoon, praire rattlers, and more all in one day!
Because the area doesn't see much traffic, the wildlife seems to be more concentrated. I've seen a nesting raccoon, praire rattlers, and more all in one day!
Getting There
Enter the park from the North entrance and park in the Homestead lot (first parking lot on the left just past the ranger station). Hike across the road South of the ranger station and head West and slighty South up the hill in a gully to the cliff. Several large boulders with severe overhangs are low to the right, and a large slabby boulder with a big North face is low on the left. (A V2 ascends the black lichen streak up the r-center of this face, a V0 traverse goes across the entire face, and a V3 highball with a not so good landing takes the NE arete).
The other bouldering starts along the cliff at the top of the hill. Once you find a significant cliff (about 25-30ft high), continue North along the cliff bottom until you see a highball arete (V0+) with a shorter slab to its right. Keep hiking North and you'll see a North-facing arete/face (V5 sds) and a constricting passage with problems on either side (V1 left, V0 right). Once again, hike around the corner to the NW and you'll end up in a much larger tunnel. The overhanging face is a V1 traverse, and the arete at the N end is a V3.
The other bouldering starts along the cliff at the top of the hill. Once you find a significant cliff (about 25-30ft high), continue North along the cliff bottom until you see a highball arete (V0+) with a shorter slab to its right. Keep hiking North and you'll see a North-facing arete/face (V5 sds) and a constricting passage with problems on either side (V1 left, V0 right). Once again, hike around the corner to the NW and you'll end up in a much larger tunnel. The overhanging face is a V1 traverse, and the arete at the N end is a V3.
Classic Climbing Routes at Five and Dime Boulders
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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