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| Elevation: | 6,612 ft | 2,015 m |
| GPS: |
39.33108, -104.73859 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 908,709 total · 3,127/month | |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Castlewood Canyon is somewhat of an anomaly on the plains SE of Denver. The Cherry Creek River cut out the shallow canyon. The rock varies from crumbly shale to conglomerate sandstone and quartz. All the cliffs are short and steep (under 25 meters), so they're perfect for toproping. Thomas Hanson's guidebook, "A Rock Climber's Guide to Castlewood Canyon State Park, Colorado," describes over 300 routes including 100 sport routes, but he also mentions that documentation exists for over 600 routes in the Canyon, not to mention the hoardes of bouldering development possibilities. Ice flows develop during certain times of the year also!
The canyon is an anomaly because so many different forms of wildlife exist in this small area. Deer, rattlesnakes, vultures, scrub oak, ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, bats, bees and plenty of bee hives on the walls, wildflowers, etc. all live in this little area. Remember, that climbing access in the future depends on respect for the wildlife of the area and good judgement.
For top roping, very long slings or an extra rope are useful since not every climb is equipped with bolts on top, and the scrub oak isn't as solid as a fir or pine. Also, many 1/4" bolts still exist as the only fixed pro for some top ropes--always back up a single bolt. CWC is great for toproping and sport, but don't leave your trad rack at home. Their are MANY underclimbed trad lines here also, albeit a little more spicy on some because of crumbly or sandy cracks.
The canyon is an anomaly because so many different forms of wildlife exist in this small area. Deer, rattlesnakes, vultures, scrub oak, ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, bats, bees and plenty of bee hives on the walls, wildflowers, etc. all live in this little area. Remember, that climbing access in the future depends on respect for the wildlife of the area and good judgement.
For top roping, very long slings or an extra rope are useful since not every climb is equipped with bolts on top, and the scrub oak isn't as solid as a fir or pine. Also, many 1/4" bolts still exist as the only fixed pro for some top ropes--always back up a single bolt. CWC is great for toproping and sport, but don't leave your trad rack at home. Their are MANY underclimbed trad lines here also, albeit a little more spicy on some because of crumbly or sandy cracks.
Ice Climbing
What?!! Ice climbing on the eastern plains of Colorado? YES! Believe it--there's ice that forms every year in the Wood--you just have to be patient and observant to find it.
Regardless, ice will form at a small waterfall along the Cherry Creek and along the north bank of the creek just downstream from this fall. Also, you'll find very intermittent ice formations on the north side of the canyon just below the visitor center and along that South Rim.
Wait for enought moisture and snow melt, then some cold temps at night and voila! Ice climbing SE of Denver!
See the description in the rock database for more about The Wood....
Regardless, ice will form at a small waterfall along the Cherry Creek and along the north bank of the creek just downstream from this fall. Also, you'll find very intermittent ice formations on the north side of the canyon just below the visitor center and along that South Rim.
Wait for enought moisture and snow melt, then some cold temps at night and voila! Ice climbing SE of Denver!
See the description in the rock database for more about The Wood....
Getting There
Driving Directions: There are two entrances to the park--a West and East entrance. Depending on what areas you plan on climbing, one entrance may be a shorter hike. See the area topo to decide.
From Denver: Take I-25 South to Castle Rock and exit 184 to Founder's Parkway. Then take HW 86 East to Franktown (about 5 miles), but look for the park entrance (Castlewood Rd) to the South before the Franktown stoplight (yes, there's only one in the whole town). This is the West entrance.
If you want to enter from the Southeast, continue to the stoplight and turn South (R) on CO Hwy 83. Stay on this road until you see the sign for the E. entrance, which will be on top of the canyon rim. Look for the signs for the E. entrance. You can also take CO 83 all the way from Co. Springs if you want--it's a much more scenic drive.
From Denver: Take I-25 South to Castle Rock and exit 184 to Founder's Parkway. Then take HW 86 East to Franktown (about 5 miles), but look for the park entrance (Castlewood Rd) to the South before the Franktown stoplight (yes, there's only one in the whole town). This is the West entrance.
If you want to enter from the Southeast, continue to the stoplight and turn South (R) on CO Hwy 83. Stay on this road until you see the sign for the E. entrance, which will be on top of the canyon rim. Look for the signs for the E. entrance. You can also take CO 83 all the way from Co. Springs if you want--it's a much more scenic drive.
New Fixed Hardware
There was a ban on new, fixed hardware.
Now, with the efforts of some motivated climbers, installing new fixed hardware requires a permit acquired through an application process. The current process is often slow, but it is possible. Bolt replacement is also underway, but there are very few invested in the efforts.
L->R for the subareas / walls
This section is for your benefit and is arranged in a clockwise fashion starting from the southeast going to the south, etc.
South Rim
Visitor's Center (from CO 83/Parker Rd.)
The Grotto
The Terminal Area
Honeycomb Spire
Corporate Walls
Sherwood Forest
Realm of the Venusian Love Goddess
Anvil Tower
South Canyon Point
West Rim
South Entrance Station (Hwy 51)/Dam Ruins
Porky's Wall
Morning Sun Wall
Cave Wall
Allied Wall
Neaderthal Walls
Grocery Store Walls
North Entrance Station (from CO 86)/ Homestead Ruins
East Rim
Gargoyle Wall
The Dungeon
Falls Wall
The Zoids
Project X Wall
C-Section aka Hedgeclipper Area
Sea World aka Hanson's Wall
Vulture Walls
North Canyon Point
Coat of Arms Corner and The Rat Cracks
Shakespearean Theatre
Revolution Buttress
The Juggernaut Area
The Playground
Corporate View Block
Wendell Spire
South Rim
Visitor's Center (from CO 83/Parker Rd.)
The Grotto
The Terminal Area
Honeycomb Spire
Corporate Walls
Sherwood Forest
Realm of the Venusian Love Goddess
Anvil Tower
South Canyon Point
West Rim
South Entrance Station (Hwy 51)/Dam Ruins
Porky's Wall
Morning Sun Wall
Cave Wall
Allied Wall
Neaderthal Walls
Grocery Store Walls
North Entrance Station (from CO 86)/ Homestead Ruins
East Rim
Gargoyle Wall
The Dungeon
Falls Wall
The Zoids
Project X Wall
C-Section aka Hedgeclipper Area
Sea World aka Hanson's Wall
Vulture Walls
North Canyon Point
Coat of Arms Corner and The Rat Cracks
Shakespearean Theatre
Revolution Buttress
The Juggernaut Area
The Playground
Corporate View Block
Wendell Spire
Classic Climbing Routes at Castlewood Canyon SP
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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