Ute Valley Park 

Some of the info I have given is based on my own experience and from conversations with others in the area. As a result some nomenclature may be incorrect. I believe the ratings I have given are about consensus.
If anyone (i.e. Dan, Ric, Jeff, Bueller) knows better than I, or if you made the first ascent of any problem, let me know so I can edit the route info and give credit where it is due.

This area is great for after work sessions. I used to boulder here a lot, Veasy-V1? They were all on the rocks downhill of the Galley boulder. There is one problem right next to the road and a tree that pulls through a bunch of pockets, does anyone know more about this problem? The feet are awkward, but the hand holds are solid, some of the best rock in Ute Valley.

-D

Today (4/8/08), some buddies and I cleaned up the landing zone between the Cube and Pungase boulders. The increase in space under the latter now allows for a long, cool, and difficult link-up of pungase into center route. This project is listed on the 'Main Boulder' page. The Valley has a new best problem IMO. Get to it...

Fun place if you don't have a lot of time or just started bouldering outside. Everything is really easy to find and there are a bundle of easier climbs. Best thing to do is just wander around and get on whatever looks like it's in your climbing range. Worth at least one day of messing around up there. It's not as lame as everyone says.

Does any one know what the traverse is rated on the main wall? and also the route on the south side of the big boulder going up the arette to the left of floater? It was a sit start with some nice heel hooks.

I figured since I have a login now to Mountain Project, I'd help out with this online guide. It seems quite a few people are using this site as a resource, and I'd like to see that it is as accurate as possible. History of bouldering in this area probably goes back to the '60s/'70s (like many other Springs areas); however, most of today's knowledge of the climbs, their names, and grades are rooted in documents like Dan Russell's online guide (no longer available) and Brian Shelton's guide (still available in climbing shops/gyms in the Springs). I am slowly adding, to the main area only, some missing routes as well as some worthy contrivances. To the best of my knowledge, the info is correct, but let me know if I have made an error. Ute Valley rock quality is generally poor, but it is an awesome playground, circuit area, or place to learn bouldering. Its location, lack of access issues, and fun problems makes it a popular place these days for the Colorado Springs area. Please be respectful, pick up trash if you see it (you will), and have fun!

I started bouldering at Ute Valley in the early eighties and used the area primarily for training. Ute is great for circuit bouldering. Before gyms I used to do a twelve problem session there a couple of times a week. Several were eliminates and traverses not included in this guide. Inconsistent rock quality but very interesting and fun terrain. It's good to see how popular the area has become.