BETA PHOTO: The climbers on the 'The Rose' and 'Jason's Argona...
Description
This route is the middle of the three at Whale's Tail. Climb up easy ledges to the first clip. Right after the second bolt is the crux, smear and shift your weight and body (with your right hand in a nice undercling) over to the left with a crimper for your hand. This is a long reach. After this move, cruise over 5.7/.8 terrain to the two bolt anchors. This route seems soft for the grade and easier than the route to the right.
Location
Whale's Tail is located southwest-ish of the lakes and if coming from the parking lot near 24 is reached before the Whale Wall. This is the middle route.
Protection
6 or 7 quickdraws and a two bolt anchor w/ rap rings.
I've led this about three times and agree that it is comparable with [Pocket's a plenty]. However, I think if you stick to the right instead of crossing over to the left down below the crux it may cross over into the RRCOS .10- range...IMO.
You people are all crazy. This route was way hard. I had to teach my boyfriend to climb so he would lead it for me. Slab people are such a bunch of sandbaggers, no offense. My hostility is purely bred of envy - but jeesh.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jan 18, 2009
A few moves are much harder than the 9 to the right.
I would say it is height dependant, if you can do the big reach above the crux bolt then it is easier than the 9, if not then the lower step across falls in the 10 range. Good, clean rock and fun moves.
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