Interesting combination of face climbing, pockets, and ledges. Climb up and past first bolt using the flare/flake. The move up and past 2nd and 3rd bolts can be direct using pockets and good footwork or by climbing on left side which is easier. Once you reach the first ledge, climb is straightforward to final ledge below two huge pockets under the anchor.
Nice route, the crux pockets are fun. The cactus is positioned right where you make a blind reach, it got me. The 2 nostril pockets for your feet while you thread the anchor are an added bonus.
Cactus nearly got my buddy who TRed it, but somehow I missed it. Don't even remember it....musta been in the zone. I'd say the first two bolts are crux. Use the crack to your advantage by starting between a juniper tree and a patch of what we suspected was poison ivy mixed with scrub oak.
By Steve Knapp From: Highlands Ranch, CO Sep 17, 2008 rating: 5.9
This route is the most fun of the three on the Whale's Tail. We weren't even sure what we were climbing until later. Crux is tricky and the finger pockets are fun. Long route! The two big holes below the anchors are interesting and make for a good stance while clipping the anchors. Oh yeah, poison ivy right on the route below and right of the first bolt.
By beehler From: Lakewood, CO Jul 30, 2009 rating: 5.10
Terrible rock, it just turns to sand under foot and hand.
Of 2 days at rrcos this was probably our least favorite climb. It seemed contrived with some odd bolt placements. It has some bad rock too - I broke the hold that looked best to me above the sand ledge. The day we did it, it had tons of sand, leaf pieces and pine needles on it. On the plus side you can often climb left or right of the bolts and vary the route. Look out for poison ivy growing *on the rock* next to the starting corner and at the base.
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