Another great route on Ripple Wall. A pseudo-bouldery start to a few good holds, to a sustained friction section, to great holds going up to the anchor. A definite route to do, although may be a tad high of a rating for the grade.
Location
3rd route on Ripple Wall, shares anchors with Eddyline.
By Steph Renfroe From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 11, 2007 rating: 5.9+
The guidebook for this area says this route is a 9+. I'm not that skilled of a climber and I led it with one fall, so I'm not so sure that it's in the 10s. The route is fun slab climbing with a mantle or two. The left anchor is a little loose but otherwise, the route is well-protected.
By Joey Jimenez From: Colorado Springs Sep 25, 2008
Left hanger on the anchor is still pretty loose. The bolt is solid. Close to a year after the last post. I'll assume it's been tightened at some point, but just some more emphasis to NOT set up a TR directly though the hangers.
I did tighten this bolt last spring. But you're right, people top-rope through the anchor which loosens the hanger. Because of this problem on other routes at RRCOS, we, the Red Rock Canyon Climbing Committee, have removed lowering rings because they were getting too worn by repeated top-roping through them. The proper way to top-rope is to run your rope through your own gear, not through hangers or rings.
We are going to replace the ring anchors on Rethinking the Ethics with rap hangers. I talked to some climbers on it a couple weeks ago that were top roping through the rings. Just sheer laziness.
The blood is actually on Rethinking the Ethics. The accident happened at the end of September. Brian Shelton was first on the scene. A fellow led the climb and at the anchor, hooked fingers into the ring anchor to pull up rope. Couldn't hold on, fell with the rope behind his leg, flipped upside down and smacked the back of his head on the rock. EMTs came and took him away with a bad concussion. I showed up just as Brian was starting to clean what blood he could off the rock...and as you noticed, there is still a pretty good sized stain there.
Was there last Sunday (11/16/08). Sorry everyone, we had a party of 4 and each person that used the first foothold had a piece break off. This did not change the route much at all. It just makes the first foot hold smaller. =) Otherwise, it's still a great route.
My brother was one of the EMTs that picked that guy up. Sure enough, we both went out and bought helmets after that incident.
By Tim Stevens From: Divide, Colorado Feb 8, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
Nice, well protected route with some good moves! The left hanger is loose and I tightened it the best I could. However, the bolt is now moving within the hole and needs to be replaced. I suspect too many people have been toproping directly off the anchor. Please people, use your own gear at the anchor when climbing on a route. The only time a rope should be running directly through an anchor system is when you are finished with the route and the rope is unweighted.
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