Very difficult start for this grade, and continues with moderate climbing up to the anchor. Good and enjoyable rock; however, some key holds have broken off, bringing the rating up from a 5.10a to the 5.10b/c range. Nonetheless, a good, albeit rather difficult for the grade, climb.
Location
Last route on Ripple Wall before the wall "Bends;" three routes are past it. Look for chalk on what appears to be an interesting start.
Protection
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Caution
As of 10/09: per PRRose both of the anchor bolts could be wiggled in their holes.
The start on this looks and seems to be in the 5.11 range? After getting to the 2nd bolt, it eases to about 5.8+. I looked for broken holds at the start but did not notice any areas that look like that was the case. We just stick-clipped the first bolt and managed OK.
Agreed on the tough start. Like Jim, I was wondering if a hold or two had broken off. In a couple areas, the rock looked a different color as though a piece might be missing. It definitely feels harder than 5.10a up to the 2nd bolt. Fun after that. Took a pretty good lead fall about 1/2 way up. Also, it's mentioned elsewhere that the left anchor bolt is quite loose.
I traversed in from an obvious rail about 6 feet left of the large block laying at the base of the route. Although easier than a direct start these moves were mid 5.10 IMO. A scary first clip and the second wasn't very secure either, much easier after that. The first bolt spins and both anchors are pretty loose also, be careful.
Pretty cool sequence of thin moves past the first couple bolts. It helps to be tall. After doing about a half dozen pitches at Red Rocks park last week, this felt far harder than the other 5.10s we did. Perhaps more like 5.11a.
I agree with Steve, this has an .11a start. I didn't stick clip the first bolt that spins and popped off the first moves numerous times. I think that Stewart's guidebook says, "must do" which really means "sandbagged".
By Joey Jimenez From: Colorado Springs Jan 23, 2009
The start to this line is indeed tricky, definitely the crux of the entire route. The first two clips are very balancy, but after those the route mellows out. No comment on the grade, although I will say H20 is a fun route route that you'll be glad you did no matter how many times you slip off the start. Landing is flat, and there's nothing to worry about should you not have a stick clip. Quick update, on the hardware side...almost every bolt is loose, including both anchors. Definitely needs a wrench soon so toss one in your bag if you're heading out and be sure to use a sling/draws if you're setting up a TR.
By Curt True From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 19, 2009 rating: 5.10d X
I'll try to get out in the next week or two and pull those bolts and replace them with big glue-in bolts. Eventually all the anchors on the east side of the canyon will have to be replaced with glue-ins. Part of the problem is that there are some folks that insist on top-roping the routes with their rope through the anchors rather than through quickdraws. The action of the rope and the weight load weakens the placement over time, loosening the bolts.
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