Balance is located at the highest point of the trail that goes along the base of the Pinnacle. There are also some nice rocks to sit on just out from the base of the cliff. Locate an upside-down crescent that has 3 bolts rising above it to the anchors. Just to the left is a crack with a piton. To the right is a very steep, but short 3 bolt route that has two orange anchors on the slab next to the second bolt on Balance. Balance is primarily a lower angled slab.
With a reach, grab good incuts on the crescent and pull up onto it. Clip the first bolt and head right to get up on the slab. Follow the next two bolts to the anchors.
Eds. the FAs felt this route was 5.9 if you follow the bolts.
Protection
Maybe you will need 12 quickdraws, and a 60m rope for sure.
Balance is definitely a fun one. The routes Julian describes to either side: I know the crescent crack is an old Harvey Carter route, and the short overhang to the right is The Shiiter, a 3 bolt .12a, also fun.
Fun route with good holds...felt much easier than war time.
By jmeizis From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 27, 2009 rating: 5.8+ PG13
This route has been extended. From the piton it now goes straight up the headwall on the climbers left. The difficulty is similar. You need a 60m to make it to the ground.
By Julian Smith From: Colorado Springs, CO Sep 14, 2009
This route has certainly changed a bit. The original set of anchors has been chopped; not sure why they weren't just left in place. You will need many more quick-draws now. Definitely take a 60m rope, too. There might be a couple of feet left over when you get lowered to the ground. Remember to tie a knot in the end of the rope!
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