The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
I've always looked at this climb as a potential free climb, but from the ground it appeared the anchor would consist of one drilled pin. Then I noticed on 10/3/08 that someone added a new 2-bolt anchor (3/8" bolts, I think - not the huge beefy ones), and I had to finally climb it.
The route climbs two shallow, right-facing corners to the top of a pillar, linked by an easy face move protected with a drilled pin. The crux is low and is steep and sandy, but it protects well. The upper corner is easier. Either way, the climbing is fun, but certainly has some desert adventure to it, as it is very sandy, and the rock is soft, which makes you wonder if your protection wouldn't just rip right out if you were to fall.
I hope to see more climbers getting on this. Thanks to whomever added the new bolts at the anchor.
Location
This route ascends thin right-facing corners on the East face of North Gateway Rock just south of the North parking lot.
Protection
Red & Yellow C3 Camalots, #0.4-2 Camalots, 1 drilled pin. 2 new bolts, 1 drilled pin anchor.
Called Parking Lot Corners. Brian Shelton and I added the new anchors a week ago. The city has been after us to get all the old webbing off there...unsightly for the tourists in the parking lot. Anyway I forgot to bring the big drill bit so we ended up putting 2 3/8-inch bolts in. An all right climb, not great but usually sandy and sort of funky. Typical Garden.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Oct 13, 2008
This route is freaky! Loose and sandy I feel that if you were to fall on a cam in the lower flake that it could break the flake off. The rock is less than ideal. Climb at your own risk. Thank you, Mr. Green, for your efforts at The Garden.
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