The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
The obvious long, wide, and steep crack is Max's M...
Description
This is a classic pitch located on the East Face of North Gateway, at the South end of the formation just left of Snuggles/Fall Crack. Start in the same place as Snuggles, and make a somewhat spicey traverse left to the bottom of the crack with no pro. The height of the route is given when starting from the very bottom, as opposed to moving the belay up to the base of the crack, which is not recommended.
Climb the first 30 feet or so of steep, angling, hand jams with good pro. Enter the offwidth/chimney and climb through some easier sections and also some bulging sections for 80 or 90 feet. Be careful after exiting the OW, as there are some large loose blocks up there. Continue up this gully for 20 feet, then bust up the steep fin on your left for 30 feet to the spire summit known as Star Point.
Be prepared for full adventure value as this pitch is seldom climbed. The protection is pretty good the whole way, but the PG13 rating is given due to the offwidth combined with the sandy nature of the route, and also the steep summit fin, where a fall could be nasty.
Rappel the route using (2) 60M ropes.
Note: There is a summit register on this beautiful spire, but the contents were removed, and we had nothing to leave. Anyone know where the register papers went? I thought maybe whoever placed the new bolt at the anchor might have taken it, but not sure, and if so, why?
Protection
Standard rack including medium to large stoppers and up to a new #6 (green) Camalot. There are about 4 or 5 pitons on the route. Anchor consists of one new 3/8" bolt, and one ring angle piton. We added new cordelette to the anchor.
In 1965 this was a very messy route. There was caked on pigeon droppings and loose rock everywhere. When Don and I climbed that last pitch we finished after dark and by moonlight. Thank God for the full moon that night. I was on belay for the second pitch and we only had one helmet between the two of us which I promply claimed as an avalanche of debree fell upon my position at the end of the first pitch. This debree and my ducking and side-stepping and loud cussing at Don for knocking it all down on me resulted in the climbs name, "Max's Mayhem". 45 Years later M.Hinkle Sarasota, Florida
Great story Max. That's was a heinous route back in the day...well, still is! Jim Dunn and I first climbed it with pitons for aid in 1970. The next year we free-climbed the second pitch up the chimney. It was pretty dang loose then too...
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 13, 2009
I have to say I was completely covered in sand after leading this pitch. I felt like I had just come from a week-long trip to the desert - but it was definitely worth it. Watch out on that off-width section at the top of the wideness - felt pretty desperate!
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