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Kindergarten Rock
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Lance 
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Lance 

5.6

   

FA: Albert Ellingwood, 1920's
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 140 feet
Views: 443 page views

Submitted By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Side view of Lance. Beginning is noted. First pi...


Description 

An early Garden route - surprised not to see it at this site.

Climb the left side of the large, Scarecrow flake.

Begin on a rock ledge and get into the right-facing dihedral. Climb up to and around (or over) a bulge. Finish up the chimney to the top of the flake and anchors.


Location 

On the west face of Kindergarten (Cathedral). A small trail winds its way to the climb through sticker bushes.


Protection 

Nuts and cams should get you up. Shares anchors with Scarecrow.


Descent 

Per Rich F.: rappel from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of Scarecrow. I rappeled with a single 70m rope and it was no problem. I doubt a single 60m would reach the ground, but may get close enough to downclimb the last several feet.



Photos of Lance Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot of Lance. Route outlined in red.

BETA PHOTO: Another shot of Lance. Route outlined in red.

West Face of Kindergarten (Cathedral) Rock with 3 routes shown. All head to top of large flake.

BETA PHOTO: West Face of Kindergarten (Cathedral) Rock with 3 ...

Looking up at the beginning of Lance.

BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the beginning of Lance.


Comments on Lance Add Comment
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By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 8, 2008
rating: 5.6

Climbed this with my son, Danny, today. Enjoyed the route a lot for a 5.6. The route calls for a little face climbing and some chimney/offwidth climbing. It protects well with small to medium cams. This route has a couple of places where it makes you think about the best way up -- like just below the large flake overhang near the start of the route. Fun route, and I don't think it gets much traffic.

Descent -- rappeled from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of scarecrow. I rappeled with a single 70m rope and it was no problem. I doubt a single 60m would reach the ground, but may get close enough to downclimb the last several feet.

By Dave G
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 20, 2009
rating: 5.6

Led today with Rich. A fun climb that doesn't look like it gets much traffic. An early move around an overhanging flake is the crux, followed by a fun chimney mid section and easy scramble at the top. Protects well with a standard rack. I should have used a sling below the crux and belayed Rich up just above the crux as our rope got jammed. Watch out for lots of loose crap, especially in the chimney. I pulled off a hand hold. Used most of my new 70m rope for the fun near-vertical rappel on two old but solid bolts.