This quality route ascends the crisp, solid stone on the SE face of Kindergarten rock by way of positive edges, fun reaches, and a crux, semi-thin sidepull.
To find the start, hike up the climber's trail across the road from the Snake Pit, as per New Era. As you hoof it up, look at the cliff ahead of you and find the sloping ramp that angles up and left with a patch of green lichen on it, just left of Era's obvious dihedral. Or, get to the base of New Era, admire the 1st steep line of bolts climber's left (Diesel to Dust, .11a), and take three steps further left to the 2nd line. This is your climb.
Two starts are possible: gain the first hanger by using the ramp to traverse left and slightly up. Positive hands but slim feet. Or, move straight up the thing layback, gain the ramp with your feet, and traverse left with good feet and ok hands to clip the second bolt - both work fine. From here, move up past two bolts to your well-protected crux. Once through, it's beautiful black and gold sandstone (limestone strata is rumored) with fun movement to the anchor. 7 or 8 quickdraws should do it.
Steward Green's guide lists the 2nd pitch as 5.11d, with two technical roofs and good rock. He also lists an .11a variation to the 1st pitch by moving right at the third bolt to an old pin, then moving back to the original line.
Protection
Only quickdraws needed; 2-bolt anchor with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch. Not sure what's on top of the 2nd?
Rookie mistake: pitch one is not rated 15.9. Should be p1, 5.9/p2, 5.11d. Sorry about that.
By kevin jenkins From: Parker, Co Sep 4, 2004 rating: 5.9+
I had a blast on this route. I took a fairly in-experienced climber on this, and he was pushed and pumped. There is a bit of a runout on the first pitch (what G of G route doesn't?), so I wouldn't recommend this a a first lead, but with a little ingenuity and some spare webbing, you too can have a great day at the Garden. Climb safe, y'all.
Good stone over in this area - this route is no exception. Bad karma for whoever pilfered the hangers... Probably best to replace them and return to karma neutral.
Alligator Soup now has new anchors courtesy of Climbing Magazine and Petzl. The two old coldshuts on 3/8" bolts are wearing through due to top-ropers not using draws on the anchors. Now they're safe!
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Mar 29, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Fun first pitch! If you use the anchors to rappel off of New Era, toprope it before you pull the rope.
Kindergarten Rock
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