This one is a lot of fun. You can pretty much make it as hard as you want - stay directly on the NW arete of white spire for the .7 rating - the farther left you go on the ridge the harder it is. Supposedly staying on the thin finger crack that runs directly down the center of the N. Ridge goes at about .11a(ish), but I've never tried it.
The crack, mentioned by the previous writer, is on the narrow North Face of the White Spire. If you stay in the crack (as much as you can call old pin scars and pockets a crack), the line goes at about 5.10b/c. It is difficult to protect on lead, for the reason that if you place pro in a pocket, it leaves no room for your hands......... This is, however, a fun little 5.10 TR. It feels very bouldery, and doesn't let up until you top out. Resist the temptation to move to the right, where the jugs are! Stay in the seam for the full effect. A worthy effort.
IMHO this is the best route on the rock with cool moves and hand fitting holds.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 3, 2005 rating: 5.7 PG13
The R rating may be a bit generous. PG-13 might be better. You can get 4 cams in addition to the 2 pins. A green Alien to start then a #1 Camalot out L before the pin, 2 more cams between the pins. Crux is between the ears. Old Rolofson guide gives it a 5.8R.
By Rich F. From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 1, 2008 rating: 5.7 R
There are one or two very old pitons, and you can probably find a few places for cams as well. But, I top roped it with my son after climbing the south ridge first. I enjoyed this route as much, or more, than the south ridge. It looks harder than it really is, and I highly recommend it.
I agree much better to TR, this opens up the whole N ridge for a whole lotta fun.... If you lead it, you'rr going to be placing gear in the only good holds until you get above the first ring angle pin.