Excellent face climbing on the glassy east face of Kindergarten Rock, with generally solid rock and incut holds. End to End is the second bolted route to the right of the obvious New Era dihedral (just left of Bob's Buttress Crack, around the corner), ascending the slightly overhanging northern aspect of the arete past several bolts to a bolted rap station. A 50m rope is sufficient to set up a TR here if desired.
Bring some tie-off's if you intend to lead this--one of the pins is only sunk about 1 1/2"; some of the others aren't much better. This is a good route to run TR laps on: it is sustained, interesting, and has countless variations, due to the plethora of incuts. Don't just lock on to the chalked hold if you run some laps--look and feel around for more and the line can be much more fun.
I agree - great route to run laps on. It's getting tougher and tougher to gain the anchor, though. Tie-offs won't do it anymore, as pins are missing. We climbed Bob's crack and toproped off of that to reach the still solid End anchor.
By phil wortmann From: Manitou Springs, Co. Sep 25, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Maybe the most sustained 10a in the garden.
By Erik Tullberg From: Colorado Springs Jul 10, 2008
I'm glad that someone else noticed that it was sustained. Whew! I also agree about the TR... we did End of an Era and then TR'd End to End. Good thing, too. I would have had a few bruises.
By Phil Lauffen From: Boulder Jul 31, 2009 rating: 5.10a
The moves are continuously 10a, with some fun clips. If this were any more overhanging it would be 11. Also, a healthy 30' runout on 5.8 terrain to the first pin gets your blood pumping for the rest of this exciting lead.
My only complaint was that it felt a bit contrived and it was difficult to keep my hands away from the arete to the climber's left and the large crack to the climber's right.
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