The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
Working my way up lower finger direct
Description
This would be a bold lead indeed, with only a single unreliable drilled angle near the crux. A fall below the pin would probably result in, at best, a ride to the hospital. Best done as a TR after climbing Finger Ramp or Lower Finger Traverse, and definitely worth doing when set up in this fashion. Climb straight up the improbable slab directly beneath the anchor in the finger alcove, moving slightly left and then back right. Because the rock is a bit soft and has few positive holds, the route requires finesse and balance rather than brute strength.
Protection
If you want to lead it, you only need one QD to clip the single manky drilled angle.
Fun stuff. There are a handfull of moves on this one with simply no hands at all. If you have climbing buddies who think they're all that because they power over the overhangs at Rifle Mountain regularly, put 'em on this one and watch them whimper ;-)
I thought this was a really fun climb. Small edges and very balancey moves. It really makes you think to figure out how to climb with next to no holds.
According the guide book, you gain a seam to the right about 15 feet off the ground. You then follow this to the only pin on the route where you find a jug and go for the anchors. I would like to think this is a 5.10+, but I agree maybe not the hard. . . Later.
This is a great climb! I just climbed it yesterday for the first time. Do the finger traverse to set up a toprope and then go at it. I would rate it at a low 5.10 personally. Great climb though!
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Oct 23, 2004 rating: 5.10b
5.10b sounds just right for the rating. There appears to be several ways to negociate the upper and middle sections. I traversed right down low to the diagonal seam while my partner went straight up. Very crimpy and fun!
On a sad note, a little baby pigeon took a fall from a perch way up above us while we were climbing. Buried the little dude under some rocks at the base of the route.
This is one of the best TRs in GOG! As you're rapping from the chains it looks pretty bleak and blank, but as you start climbing you really get to know GOG sandstone, where holds are, how to use them, and how to trust the edges. Climbing the Direct after either the Ramp or the Traverse makes for a wonderful afternoon. You could probably do all three if other climbers aren't around. A great confidence builder! I would agree with the .10b/c rating proposed earlier. Definitely not .10-, maybe if you cheated.
North Gateway Rock
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