Alpha Male on the right, Sheep's Clothing on the l...
Description
Alpha Male is about 4.5 miles down the west side of Wolf Creek Pass. It is across the canyon from the runaway truck ramp. Of the two definite climbs you'll see, it is the steeper one to the right. Sheep's Clothing is to its left. The easiest, and safest, approach to these climbs is a half hour traverse in from the top.
As for the climb, rappel in for the lead. This year it consists of 3 definite steep sections. Some years it offers no rests. This year there are 2 nice steps to catch your breath on.
Protection
This climb takes about 6 screws. The ice is nice and thick, although it may be very brittle since it is on the north facing side of Wolf Creek Canyon. Be careful belaying from the bottom, the slope appears that it could avalanche. There is no avalanche danger above the climb, just below it.
This climb is always in as it gets virtually no sun all winter. However, it can be wet even in very cold conditions so dress accordingly. Its a great climb and definitely solid for the grade. Can be easily top roped but watch your ends with a 60m rope as that would barely do the job.
This climb is some of the only ice in good shape on WC Pass right now (Jan '09). This year there is one shelf to rest on about 15-20' up, and the rest is vertical plastic with a section of wetness on the right side the last 20' or so. To find it from the top, traverse in from the east on top of the cliff, keep an eye out for a little sub-ridge before the main ridge that separates the cirque from the other climbs farther west, AM is a couple hundred feet from east of this ridge.
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