This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Vail Ice page.
Climber hooking her way up to pillar
Description
This climb is actually two climbs separated by rock. Each climb has many variations depending upon conditions. Because of the variety of routes on this climb, I believe a range of grades is more accurate than the WI4 rating listed in the Roberts book. The left-most climb forms in a steep 70 degree slab interrupted by bulges. The right-most climb is more varied and forms into a steep pillar, curtains and caves depending upon the conditions. The left side follows some technical gently overhanging ice through a narrow cave and up to some lower angle ~65 degree ice. The middle follows up a steep vertical step ~20 feet high to a small ledge. From here there are two choices. Move left onto another vertical pillar for more, steep, chandeliered climbing to the top (this may not be formed all the way to the ledge. In this case, climb the rock and move onto the hanging icicles). Alternately, for a moderate finish, move right above the ledge onto the ~65 degree ice and climb to the top. Descent: Rappel slings and rap rings from trees at the top. There are separate anchors for the slab on the left and the pillar on the right.
Protection
Screws, the ice is usually thick enough to take long screws.
Toprope Protection
There are good anchors on top consisting of several fixed slings and rap rings around a large tree. An additional ~10 ft sling and a biner for a backup is a good idea. One 60m rope is sufficient.
On Lowe Gravity Day, the anchors directly over the climb are looking a bit sketchy. At the top of the climb an assortment of slings are hanging from some iced up willows and logs. Ignore these and haul yourself over the bushes about 10 feet up. There you will find two bomber bolts with rap rings in a solid block. Use these anchors for a TR or rappel. The bolts are directly over the right hand side slabs. If you want to climb the pillar to the left use the anchors below or a screw only as a directional.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 20, 2004
This is also known as Right of Right. There is also a way to traverse in from the climb to the Left via a short rock traverse should the ice pillar not touch down.
Nice mixed traverse behind the curtain between what I believe is Left of Right and Lowe Gravity Day. Started on the right most vertical section of L of R and moved behind the curtain on to the rock. Thin but solid feet and tool placements are bomber. No rock pro placements. Moved back onto ice behind pillar on left side of LGD. I was lucky to have room to sneak behind and on up to anchors. Good time. WI3+M2?? Pics may help make sense of my description.
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