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Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch
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Plumb, The 
Right of Round the Corner 
Round the Corner 
Shroud, The 
Three Tiers 
Tony's Nightmare 
Unnamed Curtain 
Unnamed gully 

Right of Round the Corner 

WI4 M2

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
Consensus: WI4 M2 [details]
Season: winter
Views: 599 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 30, 2001


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BETA PHOTO

Description 

This, is a fun, funky route that looks less steep and less interesting than it is. It may be just a variation. I don't know its name. So, for now, we'll call it Right of Round the Corner. It is Left of The Plumb.

3 starts possible. L in corner, up verglas in middle of slab. R in gully/groove. #1 Friend at base of slab can help. #1/2 Friend is useful on R. #0.75 Camalot useful on L. Steep bit can require stubbies. Delicate ice. Nice belay ice ledge. Can use a short bugaboo to back up ice belay or go right to root/angle/jammed knots/1 link belay/rap point.

Rap 100' to ground.


Protection 

#1/2 to 1 Friends useful on rock start, medium screws and 2-3 stubbies. Small bugaboo can backup belay.


Toprope Protection 

There is an anchor to the right with slings around a root backed up to an angle and jammed knots. Might be tough to get to unless led.



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By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2007

Please be aware that an ice dam can form on this route.

When we climbed this route on 1/20/06, I broke an ice dam. The route was in very fat - it was ice only, about WI3. The dam was on the low-angle bench just before the final ice step. While leading the upper step, I broke off piece of ice. When the ice landed on the flatter section it broke the dam. A sheet of ice about 5 feet by 10 feet wide and 1 foot deep exploded off the (climber's) right side of the climb, just below the rock section of The Plumb. Water loudly gushed out of the hole for a couple minutes. It was impressive.

Since I was above the dam and my belayer was down and left, neither of us was in danger.