There are at least 7 ice climbs in this section of St. Vrain drainage. They're uphill in the Peaceful Valley region. It is a higher-altitude area. Nonetheless, south-facing ice climbs are subject to midseason thaws. The previously documented climbs (see J. Robert's "Colorado Ice") are of an mixed nature a good distance from the Peak to Peak. The other known climb forms a short way from the Peak to Peak just above and west of Camp Dick. There is a mixed climb that will occasionally form above Camp Dick in a SE-facing slot.
Getting There
From Longmont, head W to Lyons. Go up canyon on Hwy 7. Head S on the Peak to Peak Hwy a couple miles. Find the turnoff W a couple miles S of the intersection of 7 & 72.
From Denver, head NW on US 36 through Boulder to Lyons. Head S and then W on Hwy 7. Reach the Peak to Peak Hwy (7 & 72) and head south a couple miles. If you reach Allenspark, you've gone the wrong way on the Peak to Peak. On the W (R side of the road) find a small road that heads W and is labelled Peaceful Valley. Note, this is not the commercial Peaceful Valley Ranch signed just N of the above-mentioned road.
From Estes Park, head S on Hwy 7/72 (Peak to Peak) past Allenspark to Peaceful Valley. If you reach Raymond, you've gone down the S. St. Vrain Canyon (i.e. the wrong way).
Early in the season, the gate, perhaps 200m from the Peak to Peak is left open. You can drive at least past Camp Dick (~1 mi). The road becomes rough 4WD terrain further on. Later on, you must find a parking spot at this popular X-C ski/snowshoe trail. Don't block in the private driveway. Hike/snowshoe/ski in along the road. It is flat for a long way. Enjoy.
In terms of approach roads, the Brainard Lake Road is pretty much free of snow all the way to Brainard Lake... a sweet bike ride until they open the road june 13th.
Snow seemed well consolidated on the peaks above the lake.
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