There are 5 ice climbs in this section of S. St. Vrain Canyon that form with regularity. Two lie at about 5 1/2 miles W of Lyons off Colo 7. It is a low-altitude area so it is subject to midseason thaws similar to Clear Creek Canyon. Arguably, the most popular and commonly forming climb is the St. Vrain Falls. It is a single line climb. Another lies just upstream. These two are not ice for the hard person. Rather, a roadside bit of ice for novices, for the exploring types, and those seeking a moderate chunk of ice to solo.
Three lie on the North Narrows Slab (submitted as a comment under the rock section for S St Vrain Canyon). Now, these have been entered as ice/mixed climbs. These other form up briefly annually (according to Ryan Jennings) and may be more interesting to the harder person.
In 2007, with a healthy dump of snow & the right conditions, some tasty treats have been found in this canyon, see Deadmen Chipping & Vrain Strain.
Getting There
From Denver, head NW on US 36 through Boulder to Lyons. For the St. Vrain Falls, head S and then W on CO Hwy 7 at its intersection on the W side of Lyons. Drive 5.4 miles up S. St. Vrain canyon. There is ample parking at a pullout on the N side of the road. Walk 2 minutes to the climb. For the Narrows Slab climbs, drive up to the Narrows section and find these on the north side of the road, nearly abutting the road.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East of Peak to Peak:
Skidmark Left WI5+ Trad, Sport, Ice, 1 pitch, 100 feet
The Vrain Falls are in good condition, and I think it's Skidmark Left looks good. I also climbed a fun roadside flow up from the Monkey Skull. With all the snow, good luck parking!
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