Pitch one of Campground Couloir. Photo by Andiken.
Description
From the end of FR 585 at the South Mineral Campground this is the prominent line of ice visible up to the left. Typically, most parties only climb the first three pitches of WI4 and then rappel off. It is possible to continue higher on WI2-3 terrain. To descend, rappel the route with double ropes. See comment below regarding bolted rappel stations.
Location
About 4.3 miles up FR 585. This is the prominent line of ice up and to the left of the road.
There are two sets of bolted rap anchors on this climb. The first is at 200 feet (rope stretcher), and the second 125-150 feet above the first. The anchors are set high above the ice, and as of Nov. 20, 2008 had ropes threaded directly through the hangars. It would be good to redo these with screw links/locking biners and new rope/cord.
Yes, I wish I read the first comment before I went up there yesterday. The highest of the rap anchors could especially benefit from some new rope. A generous estimate would be 20 feet to redo the whole thing. A couple rap rings wouldn't hurt either. It also needs to be equalized just a tad better. But obviously I trusted my life on it, so it's not THAT bad. The lower anchor is in better shape.