Climb onto the blob of ice from below and left, hopefully passing a couple of really short pillars of ice to a stance behind the blob. Here a #0.75 Camalot can be placed before hard mixed moves to get established onto the ice. After getting onto the ice, continue up easier rock past two chimney sections to an anchor at 100ft.
An easier variation "Palin Comparison" climbs onto the ice blob from the right past a couple of loose blocks, but otherwise fun dry tooling.
Location
Just before the WI 3/4 pitch on Deep Freeze, there is a blob of ice on the left wall that comes out of the base of a deep chimney system that runs to the top of the wall.
Protection
A few screws and a single set of cams to #5 Camalot.
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