Climb one pitch of easy, blocky, mixed terrain to reach the base of the more difficult climbing.
The next pitch is likely WI3 when fully formed, or well protected M4 when in leaner conditions. In leaner conditions, climb up to a small, left-facing corner in the middle of the cleft, pull a small ice bulge then traverse left across a slab covered with a thin layer of ice. A steep ramp with a thin coating of ice then leads up to thicker ice up a right-facing corner.
Beyond the crux pitch, climb easier terrain up and left to join The The Eighth Route, or try your luck up the steep buttress above (5.7-5.8)
Thought the route has only a few good pitches, it can be combined with Alexander's Chimney to make for a great outing.
Location
The Route starts on Broadway, between The Eighth Route and The Notch Couloir. The descent to the Loft if probably the fastest way down, but rappelling into The Notch and continuing to the summit of Longs is also and option.
Protection
Protection varies with conditions, so use your best judgment. Pure ice sections are short and good rock pro can be found nearby, so only a few screws are necessary. 6 pins, cams to 3 inches, stoppers and a big #11 hex are useful in leaner conditions.
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