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Glacier Gorge
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Middle Finger of Dr. Wazz, The 
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Chiefshead Northeast Ramp 

5.4 WI2 M1-2 Mod. Snow X

   

FA: 
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Consensus: 5.4 WI2 M1-2 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 600 feet, Grade III
Season: Winter
Views: 449 page views

Submitted By: Ross on Jul 3, 2006


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Description 

Late in the season ,the upper part of this huge ramp on the 'east' side of Chiefshead holds good WI2 ice that we soloed. To get to this, there is a broken one pitch rock band that must be gained below the saddle between Spearhead and Chiefshead. You want this to be frozen when you climb this rock.


Location 

Descend the Stoneman saddle between CH and McHenerys. We couldn't, we arrived at the ridge and were met with gale force winds and had to descend out Wild Basin. Boy my wife was mad since I was out 36 hours.


Protection 

A couple of moderate cams for the rock pitch plus some nuts. Don't take a lot of gear.