This route is listed in B. Gillett's guide, RMNP High Peaks (topo p. 249), as 'icy chim', and so it is in this database. Well, perhaps this could be named, 'a mouthful of dirt' or 'patooie.' Always been curious, me, too. Hmmm. Well, um, ice climbers are exactly the sharpest tools in the shed.... This is an obvious line up a cleft on the R side of the traditional Loch Vale Gorge ice area. It has called out to be climbed. Um, er, only some listen, maybe the not-so-bright. Probably better that way. Based upon the quantity of dirt that dropped into my mouth & lack of tool/crampon scratches, this line receives few ascents. Based upon the increase of dirt and loose rock, the L finish (M6, to a pair of 48 inch circumference trees) may not have been done previously, even if on TR.
Hike up the trail as for Lochluster, Gorge Yourself, and Mixed Feelings. When you get to the climbs, go R, find a log lying against the cliff. Find this obvious chimney route R of the log lying against the cliff on the R side of the cliff band.
To set this up, lead one of the easier climbs to the L and set up a TR off trees or hike around to the R to the ledge above the climb, rappel to the ledge. Sling some trees.
Start up easy terrain at the opening of the chimney. About midheight, find some delicate dirt or moss sticks. From here you can sketch L (if you set your anchor on the above mentioned trees) on sloping holds (M6 s) or continue up the 'icy chim' (M4).
Curiosity might just get to you, beware.
Maybe 1 star is generous....
Protection
Best to TR, but if you must, rock rack bit big cams, big pros, kahunas.
This thing actually has a decent piece of ice running up until 5 ft. from the top out right now. It may be a more interesting climb in this condition than as described above.
Loch Vale Gorge
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