small flow (right) 

Returned to Hidden Falls for a crack at the steep mixed line to the right of the main flow. After a couple of warm-up laps on HF main flow, we set up a TR and worked the mixed line. Thin WI5 start leads to transition section of WI3 and then the steep finish on rock. Overhanging vertical crack is crux. Drytool placements on horizontal ledges and in the crack are key to pulling through the slightly overhanging crux. Finish is steep but good holds for hands and feet. Very strenuous but lots of fun. Could be led with shorties in the ice and rock gear for finish. Bring cams to 4" for crux. Solid v-thread at top of transition section (right side of bulge) offers retreat possibilities and at least some solid pro before crux. Has anyone named this short but fun route? Anyone led it to the top? Possible grade: M-5 in Jack Roberts grade scale.

I led this line in the late 80s or early 90s. I didn't have any rock gear so a stubby went in to the top of the skinny ice pillar (it was 10" wide or so and dead-ended when the rock goes over hanging) then I tied off the little stick that grows out of the overhanging wall and went for it. It wasn't too bad because at the top I was able to back-step to the hanging curtain when pulling on to the ledge.

Today, due to less ice, there are 2 starts, both fun. The L line felt WI6, thin. The R felt WI5-, great hooks. Not enough ice to pro for cluckers like me. Can be TR'ed from the top off trees at 90ft. Rock finish in the crack/dihedral felt awkward & muscular M6+ (similar to Tic Tac, Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack, Secret Probation (thin conditions), Get a File. There is a bit of ice between the main flow & these R flows that looks hard.