The Flying Dutchman is a 1,600 foot couloir that climbs from the west end of Chasm Lake to the north edge of the Loft. To approach the climb, hike around the north side of Chasm Lake. When this route is in condition, it offers quality steep snow climbing punctuated by a short, 55 degree water ice crux.
Protection
Most of this route is on steep snow. Pickets can be used and rock protection can be found along the west edge of the couloir. Two ice screws protect the crux ice.
By Drew Gibson From: Frisco, CO Apr 30, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
I was up on Dutchman yesterday 4/20/08. Great snow before and after the crux. The crux was rocky on both sides, but decent WI3 ice up the middle. One 10cm screw was fine. The descent down the Loft is chubby with a short section of down climbing at the headwall. Soon that will be too stepped out though. Also if the Loft heats up too much there's going to be some problems for sure. The slab formation is definitely there so watch it.
Climbed this 6/1/03. Fun snow climbing! The crux is mostly melted out and requires a few mixed moves. The rock is rotten here, but there is some good rock pro to be had. From the Loft, we summited Meeker and descended in a raging blizzard!
The snow conditions were pretty good although a bit soft and melting fast!
Crux conditions: we found a mixture of rock and ice interspersed with a samll water fall.
We climbed the rock/ice section on the left since the pure ice alternative was hollow and seemed ready to come down. All in all, a great route with awesome position.
We got blasted by a weird, winter like snow storm, as we reached the Loft and proceeded to descend in poor visibility via the loft route.
Climbed this route on 6/8. Conditions were very good to great. Good neve' owing to the recent cold spell (thanks for the kicked steps John, George, et al!) and crampons were used/needed. More ice than in George's crux photo below. Right side was fatter but still not well-bonded to the rock. Left side was good mixed climbing (M3-ish) with good tool sticks on right. Ice was thick enough in spots for shortie screws.
Climbed Flying Dutchman on 9.14.03. Really not in condition. Thought it might be a little better following the inclement weather. Had to scramble a ways to get on the snow which was really solid; however, screws bottomed out quickly. Lots of exposed rock and gravel. Lots of frozen kitty litter. Very loose. Crux ice was only a few inches thick and melting. Long day but the weather was perfect.
Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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