BETA PHOTO: Charlotte Fox leading Marble Falls in fat conditio...
Description
Colorado mega classic. This is the Coors beer waterfall. Take CO Hwy 133 towards McClure Pass from Carbondale to the Marble road (left). Go 4 miles toward Marble to a bridge & windsock, you will be able to see the falls on the right. Cross the bridge, take the 1st left into the subdivision of vacation homes, go about 1/2 mile to a right, take it up hill to an open gate. Park discreetly here. Walk up the road about 200 yards to a left turn, you should see a stomped out trail on the right. 15 minutes up the trail is Marble Falls. The left side of the falls is a bit easier than the steeper right side. A lot of water is running underneath & the top of the falls is usually very thin & exciting. More than one person has broken through & had to chop their way out. A single 60 meter rope will get you down.
Protection
Usually you can climb Marble Falls with 4 to 6 long ice screws. The "window" of thin ice at the top may require a runout.
Toprope Protection
There are 3+ fixed pins & webbing anchor on the right at the top. It's a bit back from the top of the climb, so bring a cordette or long slings for TR. There is no easy way to get to the top of Marble Falls. Lead it.
It's sites like this that provide too much info, instead of letting people figure the situation our for themselves. For some reason, it's an American trait, telling everyone how much you know about a subject. What insecurity this represents. No wonder there is all this access issues, too many people with info they haven't earned, crossing someone elses properties, you'd be mad too if hordes of Front Range gapers crossed your property! [Eds. Life is short, gracious people like to share. Peace.]
Some people enjoy sharing their experiences with others and like to see them get the same joy and satisfaction out of something. Bitching about a site like this, especially when this particular climb has been in guidebooks for some time now, is just silliness.
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