This is quite a nice little creation in the lower Ice Park. A fun TR or a decent lead if the ice is solid on the hanging pillar. Vertical, technical, sustained, quality. Find this gem downstream from the lower bridge of the Ouray Ice Park. It is easily viewed from the metal viewing platform below the bridge on the E side of the canyon. To TR, walk down past the trees above Popsicle to the next bulge of ice, perhaps 80 feet beyond Popsicle and its big tree. It is upstream from the 5 mph sign. To lead this, hike down the path downhill from the viewing platform and find this hanging ice above a rock face halfway up the wall. Or rap in.
Do not mistake this for the wavy, overhanging crack (no bolts) of Super Dave, tricky M7+, just upstream on the next rock face.
From the bottom of the canyon, climb an easier bit of ice to a great ledge at the base of a short rock face with a vertical cracked system (and 4 bolts), then pull on small edges, a few decent pick slots, and then reach R to the hanging ice. A bolt lies tucked in just behind a bit of ice on the R. Pull on to the ice creating a short overlap/overhang. Then move up vertical ice for perhaps 20 feet to the top. Save a bit of gas for the top bit of ice. Much easier top with the hooks created by traffic. Pinkpointing probably shaves a bit of difficulty. 90 feet. Fun, fun, fun. A treat.
Oh yeah, if you are going to lead this one and are setting up from below, beware that there is a pool of water with thin ice. Peter & Lisa watched someone go in to his waist just before he hopped on to this route.
By Jason Nelson From: Ouray, CO Nov 17, 2004 rating: 5.11c
This route has more like 6-7 bolts (when they're not being covered by ice). A great introduction to mixed climbing as the pick placements are quite positive. This route is great even without any ice (starting from the ledge). I've climbed this as a pure rock route as well (without crampons and tools) and it's about 5.11+. The route to the climbers right on the same wall is Seamstress (M9ish).
Lower Bridge to Scottish Gullies
RSS Feed
